I didn’t scream. I didn’t cry. All I did was endure the tapping of the thorn as it went up and down on my skin. Again, and again, and again.
The road to Buscalan, Kalinga was long and exhausting. After riding for a few hours on a lonely road in an old jeepney, my friends and I still trekked up the terraces for an hour and a half before reaching the place where the famous Whang Od lived.
Having reached our quarters during the late afternoon, my friends and I decided to get inked early morning the next day. The locals in the area treated us with an unlimited supply of steaming hot rice and their special Sagada coffee (which I absolutely loved so much I bought coffee grounds for myself to take home).
The night was a mixture of apprehension, second doubts, and excitement. My friends and I decided which tattoo designs to get, as there were two boards filled with images we could choose from. Stories about the excruciating pain and the unhygienic process of traditional tattooing constantly filled our heads. Instead of needle and ink, they used a pomelo thorn and pine soot. And to puncture your skin, a bamboo stick will be used to tap the pomelo thorn repeatedly.
Could I really do this?
I never would have imagined myself getting a tattoo. But there I was in Buscalan, waiting for the sun to rise so I could get inked. Once morning came, we went straight to a nipa hut. Surprisingly, there was already someone getting inked at 6:00 AM.
One by one, the people left and it was my turn too soon.
First, I saw it: the famous pomelo thorn. Then, I felt it. The first few pricks startled me. I could almost ignore it until the tattoo artist tapped and passed through the same areas two more times to really engrave the ink on my skin. The whole time, I listened to the dull impact of the bamboo stick on the thorn as it was brought up and down on my skin many, many times.
Just when I couldn't take it anymore, the tapping stopped and I immediately felt the soothing effect of virgin coconut oil on my back.
It was done!
The whole process was no more than twenty or thirty minutes, but it definitely felt longer. It felt like such an accomplishment after enduring the whole thing! Until now, I still haven't quite made up my mind if I'll have another go at traditional tattooing...
As our trip to Kalinga was coming to an end, we got a few more pictures with some acquaintances we made on the way to Buscalan and even with Whang Od herself. Then, after all my friends and I were inked, we prepared ourselves for what was going to be another long (and a bit more painful) trek home.
If you have any questions, go ahead and comment! I'd also love to hear of your experiences with tattooing (traditional or otherwise)! If you liked this post, feel free to upvote, comment, or follow!
Photos were taken by myself using my iPhone 6S.