“Never ask a girl with winged eyeliner why she's late.”
I've seen this cute meme floating around the internet and whether it's a line, a dash, a wing—eyeliner tends to be the most DIFFICULT thing.
But why?
Continually, I see clients making the process unnecessarily difficult for themselves because they incorrectly evaluate one or more of the following steps. This results in wasted money on incorrect products and tools for their skin texture and skill level.
Here are your beginner steps to mastery:
1) Identify your eye skin texture.
2) Assess your skill level: Beginner, intermediate or advanced.
3) Choose the proper medium (type of) eyeliner.
Eyeliner Success Formula: Eye skin texture + Skill level=Medium (Type of eyeliner)
Eye Skin Texture and Eyeliner Texture
The skin's condition and texture effects the appearance of make-up.
Imagine we're selecting a paint finish for a wall. This wall has some lines or grooves on the surface. Choosing a matte finish absorbs light and will not draw attention to the lines on the wall.
A gloss paint reflects light, therefore it essentially illuminates the blemished and marked wall.
Similarly, these concepts apply to make-up textures (matte, satin, glitter). We want to emphasize our best features and minimize flaws.
What type of eye skin texture do you have? Is it smooth, taut eye skin or lined and mature eye skin? Do you have hooded eyes?
Those with smooth, taut skin and non-hooded eyes—you are the lucky ones. You have the most flexibility with textures of eyeliner, basically anything goes. The rest depends upon your skill level.
Matte textured eyeliners absorb light and conceal creased mature skin substantially.
Hooded eyes exist at ANY age and skin texture. How low the hooded eyes hang will dictate how you use top eyeliner and how you create winged eyeliner (if at all).
Choosing Your Medium a.k.a. Type of Eyeliner
Medium: This is the type and texture of eyeliner product. Waterline: The inner rim of the eye--located behind lashes.
Eye shadows: Eye shadows come in different textures (mattes, satins, glitter). Shadows may be used as top eyeliner but are best suited as bottom eyeliner to create a smokey effect.
Where/How to Apply: Use a small pencil brush or small angled shader brush. Place shadow close to lash lines and blend when using on the lower lash. Start at outer corner for top or bottom lash. Never use in waterline.
Skin Texture: Any skin texture can use shadows. Taut/smooth skin can use all shadow textures. Mattes are best for lined/mature skin.
Skill level: Beginner, intermediate or advanced.
Pencil/Crayons: Pencils/Crayons come in varying textures (matte, kohls, longwear, glitter) and packaging (sharpened pencil or twisty barrel).
Kohls turn out a smoother, blendable touch. Longwear lends a dense and firmer application, thus their purpose--longwear.
Make sure the pencil is described as waterline safe.
Where/How to Apply: Start at inner corner for top lash or outer corner for bottom lash. Blend out with small pencil brush or small angled shader brush. Do not use a blending brush in the waterline.
Skin Texture: Any skin texture can use pencils. Taut/smooth skin can use all pencil textures. Mattes are best for lined/mature skin.
Skill level: Beginner, intermediate or advanced.
Cake (basically a watercolor paint concept):The dry liner comes in a palette or pot in matte, satin or glitter textures.
Where/How to Apply: Add a bit of water to the brush and dip onto the eyeliner. Use a small angled brow brush or slim pointed eyeliner brush. Never use in waterline.
Skin Texture: Any skin texture can use cake. Taut/smooth skin can use all cake textures. Mattes are best for lined/mature skin. Use caution with hooded eyes, depending on how low the hood sits on the top lash line.
Skill level: Intermediate or advanced.
Gel: Presented in a pot in varying textures (mattes, satins, glitter) with a consistency of a thick mascara.
Where/How to Apply: Use a slim pointed eyeliner or small angled brush and dip lightly into pot. Start at inner corner for top lash or outer corner for bottom lash. Gel is best used for top eyeliner. Do not use in waterline.
Skin Texture: Taut/smooth skin can use all gel textures. Mattes are best for lined/mature skin. Use caution with hooded eyes, depending on how low the hood sits on the top lash line.
Skill level: Intermediate or advanced.
Pen/Liquid Liner: Packaged as a tube with brush or as a magic marker pen (in varying textures mattes, satins, glitter). Where/How to Apply: Start at inner corner for top lash or outer corner for bottom lash. Pen/liquid liner is best used for top eyeliner. Use caution with hooded eyes, depending on how low the hood sits on the top lash line. Do not use in waterline.
Skin Texture: Taut/smooth skin can use all pen/liquid textures. Mattes are best for lined/mature skin.
Lined, mature skin or hooded eye users may find this form the most difficult to work with, especially for top eyeliner. Gel liner gives more control of the product for creating top eyeliner.
Skill level: Very experienced intermediate or advanced.
You're now equipped with the proper steps and a formula to combat any “liner letdown”.
Selecting the precise products for your skin and skill level will ensure you arrive on time and perfectly lined to all your events!