I have arrived at the last and most difficult part of my travel report to India. Difficult because it took a lot out of me emotionally and because I have to write a lot now (something I don't usually do).
I decided to write everything.
This report, like the previous one, is written 100% from my own experience.
My last report was about Amma and Darshan, and this one is mainly about the temple elephant.
Day 1 see here: @krasnec/ammas-ashram-amritapuri-india-an-unforgettable-experience-part-1
Day 2:
I slept very well on my mat,
the hum of fans on the ceiling quickly lulled me to sleep.
At 8 a.m. I was looking for coffee and a place to smoke when I found a cage with an elephant
(I saw him the night before, the elephant was sleeping and because of the darkness I couldn't see much).
Because photography is not allowed in the Ashram, I don't have any photos of him of my own. I found this one on Instagram:
The first moment I saw him I was happy, but a moment later I saw the chains, one on the front leg and one on the back leg, each attached to iron bars outside the cage. He bobbed his head constantly up and down and strained with his back leg in an attempt to get rid of the chain. That really shocked me, I felt so sorry for him, but then I thought that he probably goes for walks often.
The cage is integrated into the Ashram.
People walk past it, and in the square in front of it a few people were sitting and chatting. But no one paid attention to the cage, so it seemed to be normal.
Because smoking is not allowed in the Ashram, I went out.
Right next to exit, on the outside of the wall, is
Malu's Coconut Bar.
You can buy something to drink there, or just take a coconut. This local is not part of the Ashram.
3 very (very!) old plastic tables, some plastic armchairs (matching tables), a few palm trees, a hammock between them and a makeshift looking bar.
That's my first impression.
I asked for coffee. Yes! Tasted very good!
Until I left (at 1pm the next day),
I had grown to love the bar and Malu as well.
During the day I found out that this is an excellent place! People come here from all over the world and I have met some very nice ones.
In general, I felt a lot of love for many people there. I will definitely remember some of them for a long time.
In addition to this deeply felt human love, there was more and more sadness for the elephant.
For breakfast I found an Indian canteen, the food tasted good and is far cheaper than the western canteen where we ate in the evening.
After that I went for a walk with a friend. Arabian Sea is just a few minutes walk away.
The beach is nice but quite dirty and no one bathes or lay in the sun.
I don`t have any photos from this beach.
A very nice tuk-tuk in front of the Ashram wall:
The backwaters- separating the Alappad island from the Mainland on the other side- and the bridge are also very close to Ashram.
The Amrita Setu (peace) bridge:
https://www.amritapuri.org/on/amrita-setu
On the left side of the bridge:
I wish I had seen the fishing village opposite, but in my grief I lacked the adventurous drive.
On the right side of the bridge:
The buildings are part of the Ashram:
And also nice Mosaik bench behind the office:
I liked stalls with clothes, books and souvenirs. I loved it! And there was also a small grocery store.
There is also anotherone Indian canteen, where the food is simple but good (rice and vegetable curry) and it`s included in the overnight price - something around € 3,- per day.
I liked the people who ate there! So human and nice.
Mostly pilgrims from India, how my dining table neighbors told me.
Forenoon we gathered in front of the temple to get a tour of the Ashram.
The guide was very nice man and seemingly intelligent.
We went to Amma's birthplace and later the path led past the cage.
I asked the guide how many times a day elephant goes for walk? He didn't know.
I said my opinion about 2 chains and asked him how is it possible that so many people walk past and no one seems to mind.
He said, he also thought the same as me when he came to the Ashram 7 years ago, but now he sees it differently.
("How could I ever see it differently?")
He said: "That's not an elephant, that's elephant - God".
(“Even worse, isn’t it?” Said a woman in the group).
Did you, he asked me, stand near him? Longer time?
I said: "No. I would love to, but I can't!
I can't even look at him properly, I feel so sorry for him".
He said that I see my reflection in this elephant.
(But everyone sees that, not just me!)
And "...you have to empty your glass to learn something. You can't learn anything new when the glass is full".
(To empty - to learn to accept that? No thanks!)
We Talking and discussing after the tour and hugged each other for goodbye. I still found him nice, like a brother, even though we had such different views.
During the evening meditation with music and singing, I fell into a trance state again, like at the evening before.
I thought about the elephant and suddenly I was somehow connected with him. In my mind I had freed him. I cried because I felt happiness.
(You see, dear reader, again emotional rollercoaster).
That evening at 11 p.m. I checked on the elephant. He stood and slept.
I understood that he can't lie down, only when his chains are extended.
That broke my heart. I went into my room,
sat on my sleeping mat and cried. My 3 roommates came and asked what happened. I said: He sleeps standing up! In stand!
I cried a lot, like someone had died.
I couldn't sleep for a long time.
So many things went through my head.
I decided to write a letter to Amma.
What should I write?
Could Amma let build a house for Lakshmi?
How should the house look like?
I heard some phone calls at the smoking area (there is internet in the Coconut bar, that you can buy it for 15 minutes).
I understood from conversations that people talked about elephant.
I thought the sight only bothered foreigners and not the locals.
Does Amma even go to Lakshmi?
And then suddenly a thought came to me! OMG, Amma only ever sees the elephant at the ceremony! When he's free!
There was again a lot of material to think about.
E. M. Forster wrote very accurately: "But in India nothing can ever be named exactly. As soon as you attack a mysterious something with a question, it evaporates or changes shape."
Day 3:
I woke up to chanting, mantra-like, and very strange for me.
It was very early, about 5 o'clock.
I walked out of the room directly onto the temple ballustrade, sat on a chair and listened.
I had never heard anything like that and I'm so sorry I didn't record it.
At 6 I went to see Lakshmi, she was already standing and eating.
Later at home, I checked how much sleep an elephant needs? On average, four hours per night.
With coffee and cigarette, by Malu, I stared at a pile of coconut shells that was not far in front of me.
Suddenly a squirrel came and tried to take coconut out of the pool. Then 2 another came.
As I watched them, I had to smile.
I thought, how is life, when you are in the deepest sadness, you get cheer up from life.
I had my little sketchbook and pencils with me and started drawing.
At first it was a kind of temple with a facade on the outside and a large room inside.
But then I had the idea of a round cage.
This seemed good to me because only one rod in the middle would be necessary and the elephant could walk in a circle- with only one chain on one leg.
He could also be connected to the ceiling with belt on his belly.
One half would be open, with iron bars only, where he can keep his head or trunk out so that anyone can pet and feed him (a board with feeding times could be placed next to it). The other half might be bricked up.
I wrote 2 letters - drafts to Amma.
They were a bit too long and I had no more time, so I didn't manage to hand the letter over there.
After lunch we packed up, took off the bed linen and left the room as we found it.
On the way back to our Chill Valley I was in deep sadness, had no desire to take photos, and also no joy about the interesting goings-on on the road.
I thought I would never be happy again.
In a few hours I had my flight back to Vienna. After I repacked my things, I told my host why I was so sad.
We discussed around. Help the elephants? And what about people? How many are suffering and in dire need?...
Yes, that's true, but a Human can decide for themselves what they do. He can change himself or what he does if he doesn't like curent situation. This elefant can not.
(I'm not talking about people in war zones but people who are in distress through their own fault).
He told me that elephants are a problem in India. These are big, strong animals. Some of them get sick and as a result become aggressive .
In this condition, he tramples everything and kills a few people before can be stopped.
Lakshmi has such illness.
The more aggressive the elephant, the tighter the chains.
He said the government doesn't allow animals to be killed, including stray dogs on the streets, and that's also a problem.
And other Ashrams also have elephants.
I don't know how theey are kept there, but if there are such cages everywhere, it might be time for a change.
Back home, I found my little bird house that I made out of clay 2-3 years ago:
It's a little bit too small for this elephant keychain, but it's enough for a demonstration of my idea:
I wrote the shortest version of my letters to Amma on my sketch:
I hope that someone from the staff will read my two Ashram reports to Amma.🙏🏽❤
I have never felt so much love and sadness at the same time as in this Ashram. It was very interesting but
I would have enjoyed my stay much more without Cage.
I liked Kerala.
I wish for India that the streets get garbage baskets and that they become clean.
I hope that the people will always remain so warm, with their beautiful smiles.
Thanks everyone!<3
Namasté