When I think of surfing, I associate it with freedom.
Why? Because that's how I feel whenever I go surfing.
I'm free to ride the waves of the ocean.
No over speeding fines, no police, no traffic, no pollution.
Just me and my surfboard. And I'm happy with that simple thing.
Ride it with my surfboard... surfboard... surfboard...
Laying down on my board, in the middle of the ocean, waiting for the big wave, all I think is calmness.
Calmness because the light of the sunset is kissing the cheeks of ocean.
Water glitters when they kiss.
It brings joy and peace to my senses.
Touch... I like to feel the soft touch of the baby waves. It tickles my hands and feet when it hits my surfboard.
Stoked... That feeling I get when I go surfing.
Smell... Salty water, seaweed, fresh and clean.
Taste... Bit my lip. Paused. Stick out my tongue, and lick the salt water on my soft lips.
...
God! I miss surfing!