I absolutely adore Greece! And almost for the same reason that makes me love Italy. Not just because the food is tastier and the weather is nicer... Basically because of the history that you can find everywhere!
That our #nomadcruise would make multiple stops in Greece got me excited. One of the stops was in Katakolo and I had no clue where that was. But when I read through the excursion offerings, I saw that one of the excursions would bring us to ancient Olympia. Easy pick! I was finally going to see the ruins of Olympia!
The morning that we arrived in Katakolo, I was still half asleep (again? yup!) and dragged myself to the bus. Me and my camera were going to have an amazing time! But first...a nap on the bus. After I messaged some people still on the boat that there was also a train going to Olympia so they could go later. I was only slightly jealous that they got to sleep in 😎.
The Museum
But going early has its upsides. We were super early when we arrived at the museum at Olympia. That meant no queues for the tickets and hardly anyone standing in the way when you try to take a photo.
The things they dug up out of that area were amazing. I was especially flabbergasted by the glass bottles that were fully intact after so many years. If only I was able to do that in my own kitchen! It wasn't an area where people lived, so all these pieces were used in temples, by priests or for the games.
Walking a bit further through the museum, we saw the many headless and handless statues lines up. It makes you wonder why so many don't have a head anymore.
But as far as I could tell, that isn't because they ran into the Queen of Hearts from Alice in Wonderland ("Off with their heads!"). It is the same story as to why the legs and arms got lost. Statues have fallen over the years and break...
I don't know why I keep visiting archaeological museums, to be honest. I don't really read all the information on the signs and most of the stuff I have seen before in some other museum. And always, afterwards, I discover that I missed the highlight of the museum!
Not this time though. I am sure this statue must be the highlight. They actually have a statue of a time traveller holding his phone! Over the years, they have taken his phone though. But the proof is still here!
The Archaeological Site
I was happy to go to the really interesting bit, the ancient sanctuary! When we walked out of the museum, a busload of nomads from the boat was waiting outside to enter the museum. Again, I was happy to be ahead of schedule and followed the path to the ancient site.
When entering this area, it is hard to imagine what it used to be. Now it seems to be just a bunch of old stones scattered in a field. But years of history have made it what it is now: a sacred birthplace of the Olympic games.
The first games took place here in 776 BC, if I may believe the historians. It started as a festival in celebration of Zeus. Originally it was only a footrace of about 190 meters, but soon other disciplines were added, like boxing and horse racing. The athletes were male, only from Greek origin and participated in the nude, which explains all the old nude statues in Greece, like the famous one of the discus thrower.
Winners got the famous olive leaf crowns and some were eternalised by the creation of a statue. They were treated like Gods in their hometowns and got many privileges like free food. The games took place every 4 years and for the time the games lasted, a truce was called. A big difference with the modern games is that it always took place in the same location, in Olympia.
The pillars of the Palaestra in the distance. In the foreground the remains of the Gymnasion.
Gymnasion
The area was originally mostly a religious site. Slowly, temples were built and when the games became more serious, facilities for the athletes were added too. When you walk around, you will find remains of buildings from all the way back to 600BC, all mixed up with "newer" buildings from the Roman times.
The end started with a couple of earthquakes and the banning of the games after the last Olympiad in 393 AD. This was because of an overall ban on pagan festivals. As a result, the temple of Zeus was destroyed and other buildings got a new use.
After this happened, it looks like the games have continued in a more secretive manner. But after multiple floods in the 7th century, the area was finally completely abandoned until the discovery in 1766.
Remains of Roman baths
The pillars of the Palaestra
Remains of the temple of Zeus
While walking around a site like this, it is so hard to stay interested. We saw many of the nomad group just chatting under some trees instead of exploring more. And I totally get why that happened, because I wasn't too excited either to go see more old stones. Somehow, the story wasn't visible at all!
I think some things seriously have to change to keep the newer generations interested in this kind of history. I "saw" myself walking around with a mixed/augmented reality headset and thought that would have been so much fun and a great way to educate. I had no clue what I was looking at since I had no map with me or any explanation. With a headset like that, you could see what it once looked like. And audio could guide you through it, based on what direction you are looking at. Is my fantasy running wild? Probably 🤖.
Ruins of Philippeion
Arch entrance to the stadium
Stadium with the elevated sides for the audience
So that is where the magic happened! Athletes raced each other here with the audience sitting on the hills surrounding it. Modern stadiums are slightly influenced by this shape if you look at the curved seating area in the corners. This way, people always had the best view and the more modern (but still old) stadium in Athens copied this.
It looks old, no clue what it is
Nero's house
Temple of Zeus
When I was walking around Zeus' Temple, I thought I heard some bees but I couldn't see any. With all the blossoming trees, that somehow made sense to me. But I soon figured out it was a drone flying illegally above my head. Too bad these ancient sites don't allow drones. That footage must be so impressive!
The pillars of the Palaestra again
And then it was time to head back to my bus that would drop me at the boat again. It felt like it was much too short, but I saw everything. I just would have liked some extra time to take it all in. That will be for a next time though... For now, I am super happy that I have visited Olympia and would absolutely recommend it if you like ancient history!
Don't forget to check out my blog about the abandoned architecture of the modern Olympics in Athens.