The theme was very "chic chrysalis" in Alexander McQueen: the collection was built around the idea of metamorphosis: beetles crawled on a large part of the outfits. Another enchanting parade by Sarah Burton for the Alexander McQueen House: one of the most inspiring collections of this week of Paris fashion, otherwise excessively calm.
A superb blend of bold cuts, the collection featured a series of remarkable, elongated and sensual tuxedos with epaulets, fringes and lace inserts. A wonderful and chic attitude: from the incredible green leather bottle tunic, consisting of two biker jackets and worn with an ecru kilt by the model and cellist Lily Stewart, to this large cutout skirt, worn with a molded leather top black by a woman with a very generous chest, through a sado-maso bustier associated with a long fishnet skirt and ankle boots, covered with hundreds of embroidered scarabs, and sublime silk dresses printed with butterflies worn with boots riding.
The model booth included four fashion veterans: Stella Tennant, clad in a crisp military cloak; Guinevere Van Seenus in a black cutout jacket and a lace openwork skirt: Tasha Tilberg in a swirling red and black cape, with a huge matching leather tote; Liya Kebede in a vermilion braided top that went down to her knees.
One of these parades or the radiant beauty of the clothes ignites the mannequins, whose hair was pulled back and woven into a single mat, for a rather fetishistic atmosphere.
An incursion into the Celtic aristocracy, for a brand whose late founder was of Scottish descent. To play with its roots, each folding chair was covered with an Irish Aran sweater - and each bore the name of the guest on a label. Impossible to make you take your place at this intense and brilliant parade.
Proud women, with aggressive glamor, daring audacity: the models quickly paced the deformed podium, pushed by techno loops inside the Carreau du Temple, arranged with walls in raw linen cloth. It was the first McQueen show inside this 19th century wrought iron and glass market, which has in the past hosted other legendary designers: Helmut Lang, Yohji Yamamoto, Giambattista Valli, Hedi Slimane and Riccardo Tisci. Without a doubt, Sarah Burton will remain among the best.