Thiruvanmiyur is the neighbourhood in South Chennai where I currently live. I was born in the area and know all of its streets inside out. Tucked away in its corners are many old temples. The Marundeeswar temple is probably the neighbourhood's oldest structure. Evidence of its existence dates back to the Chola period during the 11th century. I pass by the temple on a daily basis. In my 26 years of life, I had not once stepped into it. Until a couple of weeks ago.
East Entrance from Thiruvanmiyur neighbourhood
The temple sits at the beginning of the well-known road, ECR, to Pondicherry. It is a Shiva temple that is a popular place for worship for people with ailments. Fables of the temple's power to cure diseases are also inscribed in other temples around the state. However, the temple is not a tourist spot. It gets its share of visitors from around the city but the majority of the people are the locals of the neighbourhood. Like my parents.
My parents are ardent devotees and visit the temple on a daily basis. 2 years after they started their tradition of going to walk in the temple grounds, I was curious to know where they disappeared to every evening. So I accompanied them.
I've seen my fair share of temples and they usually tire me out. But the Marundeeswar temple had me at my first step.
First, there is an undeniable sense of calm as soon as you enter the temple. The temple tank in front is a place for the young and the old gathering around it for a quick chat.
From the tank into the temple
Legend has it that sage Valmiki who wrote the Ramayana was blessed at this temple, giving the neighbourhood its original name - Thiruvalmikiur. Over time, this changed to Thiruvanmiyur. In his honour, a certain part of the neighbourhood is still called Valmiki Nagar.
What's special about the temple is that it is big, occupying an acre of land, and is mostly untouched by renovation or refurbishment. The colours of the temple's gopurams remain true to its original shades. Its stone pillars have not been painted over. The beauty of the temple is undeniable. I had to admit, this was definitely one of the nicest temples I had set foot in.
The mandapam or entrance to the main shrine is a stone colonnade with 36 intricately carved pillars telling the many stories of Shiva. Its sides are also places where people informally gather to exchange news and chit-chat.
Some of the most fascinating doors I have seen form the entrances to many parts of the temple. Beautifully carved, coloured and tessellated, they were my favourite parts of the temple.
A series of snake idols are usually seen around the temple tree to alleviate a person of other problems
A large covered space is where visitors choose to sit, speak and exchange news. A busy spot in the mornings and evenings, people also come by to sleep under the shade during the afternoons. It was then that I realised that temples were more than just places of worship. Temples are also places of public rest, recreation and interaction. According to my parents, the Marundeeswar temple is where all the neighbourhood mamas and maamis gather to unwind, catch up and arrange marriages. Some people have their beaches and bars. And others have their temples, churches and mosques.
Are your local religious institutions places of public interaction too?
