Hello bonsai enthusiasts! Check out my latest article as I work on my cherry tree. It has grown so quickly, I think you will be amazed with the results. In this article I will be showing you various stages of growth, how to prune the roots, type of soil to use, and how to arrange the tree in the new pot. I'll also share some information about why bonsai roots are designed a certain way, and why the pot is so wide and shallow in bonsai.
For beginners, this information can be quite valuable, and for masters, they know that I'm barely scratching the surface of true bonsai design.
Everybody is always welcome to comment here. Ask questions and provide constructive feedback. Make friends and connect. That's what we're all about.
Historical Details of this Tree:
ID: 0024
Nickname: Soda Pop
Type: #Cherry
Age: 9 months
Grown: cutting from branch
Last repotting: On the day of these photos, November 9, 2018.
Read this article, to learn about the origins of how I started growing this tree.
First it was grown in sand and rocks until it rooted.
Then it was put into a pot with a more moisture rich, soft compost and coconut coir. This gave it a chance to be nourished with many nutrients and extra moisture to promote more root and leaf growth.
In November, I decided this tree would do better if I transferred it to a bonsai style pot, with better bonsai soil.
After removing the tree from the pot, I was pleased that it came out in one piece, and not roots were damaged. The roots look very healthy to me.
In bonsai, I'll be removing the longest roots coiling around the bottom, and use a wider pot with rocky soil to promote more branching of roots out to the sides.
A perfect root system would have thick roots spreading out in a radial shape in all directions from the trunk, and head out sideways until they hit the edges of the pot. Along those main roots, smaller feeder roots are allowed to grow. This can take many years to develop, but it will provide a growth system that will support a healthy tree for possibly many generation.
The soil on the bottom of the pot may develop a pale sheen, such as this. Fungus and bacteria will often form in the soil where it is dark and moist. As long as the fungus and mold is not rotting the roots, it actually helps benefit the roots by feeding beneficial nutrients and sugars in a form the tree can readily use.
I raked out the soil and pruned off the long root that was coiling around the base. Not very much root was removed, in truth. With all of these side roots clustered around the trunk, this tree already has an excellent growth system in place to sustain it. Some of the center roots are already showing signs of thickening, to build the makings of a future nebari. The hardest part will be pressing down all of the valuable top feeder roots so they do not lift above the soil level. The soil level will be made to match the height of the thickest top root touching the trunk, so they are slightly exposed.
This is the pot the tree will be going into. It is best to arrange the screens over the holes and arrange the wires before working on the tree. The worst is to have an unready pot after trimming the roots, and then the roots get dried out and weakened by the light and air while getting the pot ready. So make sure you get the pot ready first. Wires are necessary to hold the tree tightly into the pot, because the roots will not grip well for many months in the new loose soil. The wires will attach the tree firmly to the pot, and ensure it does not tip over or fall out.
Here, I arrange the tree in the orientation I think it should be planted. Some of the roots are extending beyond the limits of the pot, so those will be trimmed to fit. I never trim long roots completely off. That would be quite unnecessary. Leave them as long as possible so they extend just to the width of the pot. Any roots that criss-cross or get folded should be stretched out so they lay straight, and trim off the excess.
Fill the pot with good porous bonsai soil if you live in a wet and climate like mine. I tend to over-water my plants, so this ensures that they will never drown or rot, because it will have excellent drainage and lots of humidity around the roots. For this tree I used 100% horticultural pumice.
During the winter, this pot will be mulched heavily with coconut coir and bark chips, to protect from drying, cold wind, and to add extra layers of warm moisture against the pot.
Here is the finished result.
Looking forward to seeing what this tree will do next Spring. I think it will continue to be a fast grower. Who knows? Maybe it will make flowers and fruit some day too.
Photos in this post are all #originalworks by 
Find me on discord and chat with other tree growers, bonsai enthusiasts, and gardeners. We have quite a few accredited experts filling out our ranks, and a helpful Spanish-speaking community.
No memberships. Love trees. Make friends. Grow together.
Bonsai!
Tuesday, December 11, 2018
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