What a sight the Seville Cathedral is!
As I stepped out into the warm Andalusian sun on a crisp morning in Seville, the air was filled with the faint scent of orange blossoms and the distant strum of a street guitarist. I'd arrived the night before, eager to dive into the city's history, and the Seville Cathedral—officially the Cathedral of Saint Mary of the See—topped my list.
It's the largest Gothic cathedral in the world, a UNESCO gem that towers over the Plaza del Triunfo like a stone sentinel, its intricate facade carved with saints, gargoyles, and biblical scenes that seem to whisper stories from centuries past. I bought my ticket online the day before to skip the lines (€10 well spent), grabbed an audio guide at the entrance, and slipped through the Door of the Prince, feeling a mix of excitement and reverence.
Inside, the sheer scale hit me like a wave. The nave stretched out endlessly, with ceilings soaring 42 meters high—about 13 stories—supported by massive stone pillars that made me feel tiny in comparison. Sunlight filtered through the stained-glass windows, casting colorful patterns on the floor, and the air was cool and hushed, punctuated by the soft echoes of footsteps and murmured prayers.
I wandered first to the high altar, a gilded masterpiece that's said to have taken over 80 years to complete. Its intricate panels, covered in gold leaf and depicting scenes from Christ's life, gleamed under the lights—ostentatious, yes, but breathtaking in its devotion.
Nearby, chapels lined the walls, each a mini-world of art: paintings by Murillo and Goya, silver altars, and reliquaries holding bits of saints' history. One particularly gory sculpture of John the Baptist's severed head caught my eye in a side museum, a reminder of the cathedral's raw, medieval roots.
The tomb of Christopher Columbus was a highlight I couldn't miss. Held aloft by four statues representing the kingdoms of Spain, it's this grand, mysterious monument right in the transept. I lingered there, pondering the debates about whether those are really his bones (DNA tests say yes, but who've been moved around more times than I can count—from Spain to the Dominican Republic and back).
It felt like standing at the crossroads of exploration and empire. From there, I explored the Royal Chapel, with its tombs of Spanish kings like Ferdinand III, and the treasury, overflowing with jeweled crowns, golden chalices, and artifacts that screamed excess.
The cathedral's history as a former mosque added layers—elements like the Patio de los Naranjos courtyard outside hark back to that era, with its orange trees and fountain where Muslims once performed ablutions.
But the real adventure was climbing La Giralda, the iconic bell tower. No stairs here—just 34 gently sloping ramps, originally designed so guards could ride up on horseback when it was a minaret. I huffed my way up in the midday heat, pausing at windows for glimpses of the city below, my legs burning by the top.
It was crowded, with people ascending and descending in separate flows, but worth every step. At 343 feet, the views were panoramic: Seville's red-tiled roofs, the winding Guadalquivir River, the Alcázar gardens next door, and even the distant Plaza de España.
The breeze up there was a godsend, and I snapped photos of the gargoyles and the weathervane, El Giraldillo, twirling in the wind. Descending was easier, though my knees wobbled a bit.Exiting through the Patio de los Naranjos, I sat on a bench amid the blooming trees, sipping water I'd wisely brought along (tip: always pack some, especially if climbing).
The courtyard's Moorish arches and the sound of the fountain were a peaceful contrast to the interior's grandeur. As I left, weaving through the Barrio Santa Cruz neighborhood with its narrow alleys and tapas bars, I felt overwhelmed by the cathedral's blend of faiths, artistry, and history. It wasn't just a building; it was a living testament to Seville's soul—vast, intricate, and a little exhausting, but utterly unforgettable. If I go back, I'll aim for a Monday for free entry and pair it with a guided tour to catch what I missed.
