However, colds autumn do not add a cosiness in insufficiently warmed house. On idea, it would be quite good to come in the winter also on the days off to drive on skis, to lead with grandsons a winter vacation, but it is impossible because of absence of warming of the house of old construction. And to bake-temporary barracks a situation will not correct. It will be warm only time. The brick house too for days-two you will not warm up.
Absolutely an another matter if there is even one warmed room with brick the furnace. Then it is possible to spend the days off in the late autumn, in the early spring and even during winter time and slowly to alter set of building, repair and other works for which it was not possible to find time in up to a limit sated garden- garden cares summer days. To warm one of rooms and to put the capital furnace does not represent the big complexity, when you know what to do, how to do and of what to do. Therefore before to start the description of works on heat insulation separate constructive elements of the house, we shall consider some general provisions, concerning forthcoming business.
The most widespread and effective heaters which are let out by the industry, glass wool, mineral cotton wool, polyfoam are. Foam rubber, and also wood-fibrous plates.
Do not concede mineral and organic heaters, such as sawdust, a fine wood shaving, a moss are widely used in individual construction. To them it is possible to add still a lot of warming materials: straw, capes, a dry fine grass (hay), a cane, a sedge, a peat crumb, etc.
For preservation of the thermal insulation properties any heater mineral and organic should be dry. The damp organic heater besides necessarily rots with all unpleasant consequences. The dry warming material keeps the properties beyond all bounds long.
However, the some people think, that in organic heaters rodents can be got. But rodents will lodge in any heater, including in glass wool if work is executed carelessly, with cracks in facing. A lining from roofing material - simple and reliable protection.
For mineral heaters (glass wool, mineral cotton wool, polyfoam), and also sawdust, a fine wood shaving and a moss the minimal thickness засыпки makes 10 sm (counting upon temperature of external air up to-20 degrees) under one indispensable condition - external facing should be not blown. For more porous organic heaters thickness backfilling should be increased till 13-15 see
It is necessary to condense mineral heaters so that at pressing on them a hand the heater came back in a starting position. If a heater in матах to loosen it does not follow. The more finely times in a heater, the it is better.
Sawdust and fine shaving stamp up to a dense condition. Straw, hay, a cane, a sedge, a large wood shaving all over again crush, and the more finely, the better (to cut with a sharp axe), then condense up to a possible limit.
For economy it is possible to use simultaneously organic and mineral heaters. Stacking them in the form of a puff pie, especially in those designs where it is necessary to fill their all thickness, for example, in interfloor overlapping or at warming a floor. A layer of the best heater stack from a cold.
neproduvaemost walls to provide simply, it is enough to put under external facing any dense material - a cardboard, a thick paper, roofing material, roofing felt, glassine, a polyethylene film. From boards in a quarter or in tongue in any way it is impossible to consider facing not blown. How it has been densely driven, cracks are inevitable even because boards have defects, are subject shrinkage and warpage.
The greatest effect from warming turns out, when facing of a wall is from the inside executed from a sheet material - a hardboard or plywood on easy wooden crate from реек. In this case on heating of a room it is required to less time and energy as such wall because of small weight of internal facing gets warm very quickly.
At facing internal surfaces thick boards (more 20mm) thermal mechanical properties of walls worsen. Their heating during cold time from temperature of air up to comfortable demands greater expenses of heat. And the sense of warming of the garden house just consists in as soon as possible to heat up a cold room and to keep heat, heating the furnace not more often two times day in the most severe icy cold.
The frame house
The most widespread scheme of the garden house - a skeleton with sheathing from both parties boards. From within walls usually finish with a cardboard, a hardboard or plywood and paste over with wall-papers. Internal space between an external and internal covering fill nothing.
Warming of the existing house can be made both from within, and outside. It depends on a heater, and from a material of facing, and how boards - vertically or horizontally are located. In a dry flying weather to remove external board facing easier. Boards number, and after stacking a heater sew in the same order.
The material can be applied to warming in any combinations. For example, the bottom part of a wall where boards are located vertically, it is convenient to warm not loose materials which are well condensed in any direction (rockwool, glass wool, a moss, a cane, a sedge, straw.), and the top part of a wall where boards are located horizontally, it is possible to warm hay and loose materials (sawdust, a fine shaving).
Warming of a floor is connected, as a rule, with its disassembly and the device of a subfloor on which the heater keeps within. It is possible to apply any accessible material, both mineral, and organic or in their combinations (a puff pie).
From below from the ground the subfloor necessarily should be not blown, for this purpose on it stack roofing material, roofing felt or glassine - excellent protection as well from rodents. If sheet materials are not present, a subfloor cover clay and straw with a coupler (on volume: clay - 1 part, sand - 2 parts, incised straw - 1 part) thickness in some centimeters.
Under a pure floor (on a heater) again stack roofing material. On top of a board floor (from not planed boards) lay leveling layer of a hardboard and it is desirable linoleum to protect a heater from casual soaking by water.
Warming of a ceiling, or, more truly, overlappings, is made the same as floor.
If the house still is under construction, works on insulation are better for making from within. And a ceiling, reveted by a hardboard on crate from реек, it is more convenient to warm walls glass wool or mineral wool. It well is cut, keeps within between strips without additional fastening. Crate do similarly by that which is shown for the brick house. To work with mineral and glassy it is necessary in leather gloves or mittens. The internal covering of walls and a ceiling should not have even the smallest thinnesses, through which sharp fibres can get into a premise. At warming walls by loose organic materials (sawdust, a shaving) it is necessary to carry out continuous facing from boards on roofing material.
The brick house
Warming of the brick house has the features. On a brick wall as though the second from within is hung thermal insulation a wall. lining it is more preferable to do it of a hardboard or plywood. It is possible to sheathe and вагонкой, but it is more labour-consuming and dear work as the perfect material and rather qualified work is necessary for reception of high quality of walls and ceilings.
Warming under facing by a hardboard or plywood do so. First mark walls, putting vertical lines through 300 mm. On these lines through everyone of 500 mm drill apertures in diameter of 10-12 mm and into them hammer in wooden fuses (dry, it is desirable birch, they give the least усадку) which remain acting on 30-50mm. On fuses hang (propressure) roofing material from top to bottom and fix on a wall in any way. To fuses, cutting off flush with a wall, large nails beat lugs in the size 100х100. Thickness of 90 mm. On lugs hang рейки thickness 30mm and width 40-50mm which together with a lug give that minimal thickness (12 sm) heater from glass wool, rockwool or sawdust which is necessary for the brick wall accumulating the greatest quantity of a cold and dampness. Between рейками stack rockwool with careful filling joints. From above everyone close a hardboard or plywood, joints between sheets glue a gauze, hats nails paint a paint, differently on wall-papers there will be rusty spots.
To not alter a frame and a door, end faces too small in window and door apertures can be warmed foam rubber or mineral felt thickness 20mm, to revet with a hardboard and to paint.
At warming sawdust basic rail establish through 50sm and a wall sew up вагонкой horizontally from below upwards on a continuous lining from roofing material, falling asleep for boards sawdust and it is dense them stamping.
The greatest losses of heat go through windows and doors. For reduction of losses entrance doors upholster with leatherette on felt or cotton wool, windows carry out with double glazed. Door and window boxes establish in apertures with a backlash 5-10mm. These backlashes carefully caulk cotton wool, a tow, тряпьём. Window glasses fix glazing bead on a paint or coat with putty.
It is noticed, that the room the area 10 kv.m heats up the small brick furnace till 20-25 °С in any frost for 2 hours, and warmly stably keeps within 10-12 hours. On walls and a ceiling, reveted by a hardboard on easy crate, it is never formed a condensate and there is no dampness. The house became serviceable the year round. Otherwise also could not be, if walls of the house were warmed by glassy thickness 8sm, and a floor and a ceiling - a puff pie thickness of 12-14 sm from a fine dry grass, рубленых shavings and one layer of rolled glass wool (3sm).