Everybody has heart right?
Does everybody listen to their heart?
When was the last time you heard your heart beat?
(please click play on Jack Johnson's music video "You And Your Heart" for pleasant listen and read)
Enjoy...
Couple instances I had while surfing since I do have a heart and choose to listen to it and also what happens when I don't. You should always listen to your heart right? Especially when it signaling YOU, your body to act or perform in specific manner. When it comes to surfing however, it can also sense danger. That's were the the heart beat becomes louder? Wait does a heart have speakers or and amp? Mine doesn't! But it is signaling me to move faster while it starts to beat faster and that is exactly what I started doing... Paddling for my life, just to get beneath a 5-6 foot wave getting ready to crash right on top of me as I duck dive below into the water with my board holding my breath...(2-3 seconds underwater) and hearing my heart beat start to slow down, again no speakers, just me or YOU hearing it. If you ever gone swimming even in a pool or holding your breath underwater for about 10 or more seconds YOU can actually hear your heart beat without any physical action or movement. Just being calm, and listening silently, in still underwater atmosphere. Don't believe me ? Try it yourself. Our heart beating or pumping gives our body and mind a sense of being alive and conscious. Experiencing this every time I go surfing has raised my awareness and allows me to push the limits, or I should say WIPEOUT!
(you may pause the music video if you like now or continue)
After making it through several minutes of paddling nonstop and going under several 5-6 foot waves just to get into the line up! My heart is PUMPING and mostly out of breath or short of breath but my body is strong and fit which is the endurance as well as the adrenaline been built up. The thing about surfing is their is no ON/OFF switch or TIME OUT that you can just flip or call.
"You And Your Heart"
No matter how much fun or how much you love to do something. If you don't listen to your heart, it very much can hurt you in more ways than one. Lets forgo the obvious heart attack or pain in your heart feeling from fear or stress of witnessing a BIG wave with your very own eyes. But if you really, Really want to take that wave and your heart is not fully prepared or ready yet. Allow me to paint another picture for you...
Choice #1
Out of breath and just continue paddling nonstop and duck diving again the 5-6 foot wave in hopes for a break or a calm in the sets?
Choice #2
Still out of breath and stop paddling and just take the HIT of the 5-6 foot wave and pray for a break or calm in the sets?
Choice #3
Still out of breath and turns board around facing the beach and charging down the 5-6 foot wave...
Yeah!
CHARGE!!
COWABUNGA!!!
You guessed it third choice!
(feeling the heart thumping)
(hearing the heart pumping)
(consciously feeling the hearts fear)
The feeling of an immediate BOOST!!!
FORCE beyond recognition as water BLAST!!!
Somehow managed to put both feet on your board...
Feelings disappears, Fear disappears, No longer hearing your heart!
You are ONE with the water and lose all sense of direction, just going with the FLOW!
After realizing you have been fast forwarded into time! REALITY HITS! Hehehee...WIPEOUT...
(please press play on the video for the full effect and ending)
To Be Continued...
(click on the tag "franks-surfing" for more)
or
Google "franks surfing experience"
Thank you for your time.
Keep STEEM N & SURF N ON,
Frank
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