I am back from Lunch!
Well Hour One went by fairly fast!
Allow me to finish painting everyone a picture of my First Two Waves of the Day.
<<<==== Looks to the left!
Looks to the right! ===>>>
Yells to the crowd...
Which way you going???
(surfers says going right)
(so I am going left)
Drops in and doesn't look back as I charge forward looking for the corner of the wave racing past the white wash so I can slap the curl of the wave with a backside whip! (sprays...)
Recovers and adjust my waist to finish off the rest of the wave as I smile thinking I am HOT STUFF! :)))
Feels pretty good and also hearing the sound of the water dropping from the FAN SHAPED spray of the water landing back into the ocean. (wish I could of sprayed this other surfer)
Now paddling back into the line up to get my 2nd Wave of the Day...
(in my mind wanting to go right this time)
I have to position myself in the waters away from the other surfers and stand up paddle boarders since competing for a wave is somewhat common. I choose to be more laid back and let other surfers take the first wave and I can just wait for the second wave to clear space around me. (remember wanting to go right this time)
After several minutes arriving at my spot and patiently waiting for my second wave...
Here it comes!
Drops in, no one around so going right (frontside) which is my favorite! Bottom turn...
Reposition my feet and tucks into the curl of the wave hoping to get covered but the wave is just not big enough, needs another foot or so...
You can't win them all!
(looks at bosses watch again)
BREAK TIME!!!
Last Hour Three (link below)
https://steemit.com/franks-surfing/@cassidyandfranks/work-memo-hour-three
Stay tuned for... you guessed it!
"Hour Three..."
More Promoted
https://steemit.com/promoted/franks-surfing