When I was a child I almost was attacked by a shark. My Uncle had just given me the okay to catch the incoming wave.
As I went to stand up I heard him yell, "Look Out!!" Right beneath my board was a bull shark. Luckily my small limbs came out of the water before he could get a taste of his forthcoming prey. The lesson learned from that was to see the wave and move fast to catch it. I need to be in constant search for the wave of my life.
Surfers only ride a wave for an average time of six seconds, and the waves of their lives only arrive from time to time. But in this sport, it's rare to meet someone who quit surfing because he or she didn't enjoy the feeling of walking on water. Surfers have more fair surf sessions on average than they do epic moments in crystal clear waves. The best rides of their lives come along only once in a while.
So, despite onshore surfing days, one-foot waves, cold water and choppy waters, surfers always return to the scene of the crime. Why is surfing so addictive? Is it any different from other sports, such as soccer, running, swimming or tennis?
Surfing is highly addictive. It is one of the most popular board sports ever invented. There are over 20 million surfers in the world, and the number is growing fast.
Each surfer will have his or her own list of reasons they are drawn so irresistibly to the sport, but accounting for commonality, here are, 25 very good reasons why surfing is so addictive:
- Riding a wave is a breathless experience;
- Adrenaline injections pump our heart and blood;
- Sun, salt and sand are a virtuous blend;
- Oceans have a positive impact on human health;
- The best way to forget your daily problems is to face bigger challenges;
- In the lineup, you're alone with everybody;
- Every wave has a different feeling;
- As you progress, you're compelled to surf better each day;
- There are waves in every corner of the world;
- It's a great way of living life;
- A beer tastes better after a surf session;
- Personal surfing photos are inestimable;
- Only a surfer knows the feeling;
- There's a deep sense of connection with the cultural history of surfing through time;
- There's always the next surfboard to be bought;
- Surfing makes you feel alive;
- The first wave ride is unforgettable;
- Weather forecasts are never 100% accurate, adding to thrill;
- Humans love water;
- Each ridden wave is a personal story;
- Gods seem to be around during the best waves of your life;
- Wax smells nice;
- Surfboards are objects of design and desire;
- The drive to exploring and discover new surf spots intensifies with time;