As an Australian Surf Lifesaver I was surprised when I found riding waves is at least 2,000 years old! Amazing! Who would have though it but it clearly seems to be true.
Having lived on Bali, in Australia and New Zealand I have been surrounded by world class surf for many years. Although I don't surf I often enjoy swimming in the ocean and body surfing. The ocean is spiritual and cleansing and it's delightful to know that it was enjoyed by our ancestors thousands of years ago...
2,000 Years Of Riding Waves
Although surfing probably hasn't been practiced continuously for 2,000 years it is possible that it may well have been practiced by people even before that because the last ice age created cataclysms that erased details of our prehistory.
However it seems that the Pre-Incan Moche culture was riding waves in South America at least 2,000 years ago. This practice was continued by the Chimu culture. Although cultures change when you are alone in the water it is easy to conceive that our ancestors sensed the same solitude and bonding with nature that we feel today.
When it's just you and the ocean culture doesn't seem to matter as much,,.
The construction of surfboards may have changed but on a personal level that doesn't matter to me as I swim alone in the ocean without board or flotation devices.
Seahorses Of Straw
The Moche culture used what was called "Caballitos de Totora" or "Staw Seahorses" for fishing but it appears they would also ride the waves for fun. Why wouldn't they? Our drive to commune with nature and have fun runs very deeply within the human psyche and it is only natural that people on the ocean would gravitate to the waves. It could have been that the culture was using the vessels for fishing and then would ride the waves back into shore.
For any of you who have ever caught a wave you will know that the experience is an exhilarating one that you never forget!
It may be no coincidence that the world's longest rideable wave known as 'Chicama' is located in what used to be the Mochica culture situated around Peru. Why wouldn't they ride that beautiful wave?
Surfing's Polynesian Roots
The Polynesian people who spread throughout the islands of the southern hemisphere also practiced surfing. Notably it was in Hawaii that surfing was practiced as an art form and a spiritual activity. Prayers to the spirits of the ocean and assistance from Polynesian priests were important in construction of surfing vessels and as an act of spiritual communion.
I can completely understand this and again it's easy to conceive that the emotions and feelings inspired by being alone and at one with the ocean were the same in the past as they are today. Certainly the Polynesian peoples were excellent seafarers capable of mastering the oceans and stars to traverse across the globe in canoes. These remarkable skills were later utilized by European trading ships whose captains recognized incredible knowledge in the Polynesians and would bring them onboard their ships to assist with navigation.
A Diverse Spirituality
Although the entire history of surfing the waves is beyond this post. The links I have sprinkled throughout will provide you further details should you wish. What is fascinating to me is that many surfers consider the act of surfing a spiritual act. Surfing happening over 2,000 years ago in South America and fascinating that time frame matches the estimates of Ayahuasca use we have. And at exactly the same place: Peru!
I am only making the connection that Ayahuasca and surfing are spiritual activities of some of the highest magnitude and identify that they seem to have ancients roots of the same magnitude and come from exactly the same place.
I personally find this fascinating! 😉
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