Well,some of the science is also here in surfing,basically the equations used in progressive wave, some of the analytical things can be employed, chrests and troughs to measure the depths of the wave.

Surfing what I think is,greatly reliant on efficiency, even those who know physics of it and practical hydro-dynamism can surf good,even those who have no knowing acquaintances can also rock on surfing..

Good to see that you have a sliding mate, huh ha..
Keep on sliding.. 😀