Beautifully written!
Shoo it sounds like you're pushing yourself! I guess the good thing is that it's just you and your friend out there, so at least you don't have to hassle in a crowd, and can take your time and pick the wave you think you have a real shot at making...
Oh no wait, there he is dropping in on you in the last photo! There's just the two of you and still? Are you sure he's not taking the piss? How much do you actually like this guy?? Haha (kidding)!
RE: Swallowing Your Fear - Surfing Big Waves