The first seven days of the challenge where for "Surf February" - a fundraising initiative which supports cancer research - I've surfed or swum every day for the first week in February. I have to do it to the end of the month, because that's the challenge. As I wrote last time, since Dad died last year I've struggled to find meaning in things, so it's nice to have a purpose. I was so humbled to have friends and relatives, including mates on Hive, donate - you can do so here if you can spare a few dollars for cancer research.

The second week was far more challenging, truth be told.

Sat 8th - Surf

There was swell today - a few good feet, which was awesome fun. It was breaking from the point to the boatramp, which can be a good two minute ride. However, the easterly winds were already starting to influence it, as the current running underneath was pretty strong and it was slightly wonky. I didn't hold out much hope for the following day.

Sunday 9th - Surf
I wasn't wrong. The surf was terrible - it was super windy and I sat on the beach for ages chatting to a woman who drove two hours to surf every day. She was living with, and caring for, elderly parents. I was quite grumpy and feeling sad - in fact, I had a good cry when I told her what happened. Meanwhile, we were both being sandblasted by - yep , sand. We decided to go out anyway - I got two shitty waves and came in. It was absolutely NOT FUN at all. If I wasn't doing the challenge I would never have gone in those conditions.

Monday 10th Feb - Swim

I was really, really reluctant to drive down today. If I wasn't doing the challenge, I wouldn't have gone down. The ocean was massive and sloppy and horrible and the wind was awful, awful, awful. Jamie came down with me and held my towel and I went in at Cosy Corner, Torquay. The current was viscious and the wind was horrendous but I went in anyway, struggling against the current to swim 50 strokes and dive under a few times. Jamie took a picture of me in my bikinis and shared it on Facebook. I thought it was hideous. Woman my age do not feel comfortable having our photos taken in bathers. But everyone loved it. Go Kyls! they said, and the donations came in. That was the opposite to what I thought they'd do seeing me scantily clad, which was something like vomit and unfriend me. Mum said I looked like a Bond Girl. Hahahha. But I guess it's a lesson in body positivity, and such a lesson I'm even going to woman up and share it here.

Tues 11th Feb - Swim

I had a walk with Mum, meeting her at Cosy Corner and going for a coffee. It was the very first time Mum had wilfully and willingly left the house to go for a walk since September when Dad died, so she was feeling proud of herself and I was feeling proud of her. Very proud. I love my Mum. AFterwards I had a lovely swim - it was hot and busy with kids, but it was nice to wash off the sweat after the walk. There were a few kiteboarders about which said something about the wind.

Wed 12th Feb - Swim

What a stunningly beautiful day - it was hot, and we decided to drive the Land Rover to one of our favourite spots at Lorne to hang out under the awning and read and swim. There's a little cove where the tide comes in at out and it's safe and magical to swim. The water was insanely beautiful and we must have been in at least five times over the course of the day, even Jamie, who doesn't like swimming so much. It felt like our own private pool.

Thurs 13th Feb - Swim

I was called into work today - my first day in the classroom this year. It was going to be hot, hot, hot - 37 degrees and very unpleasant. I wasn't happy about it but there was no surf and Jamie reminded me all the classrooms are air conditioned. After work I drove down to Mum's and swam in her pool. I wasn't in the mood for a hot, crowded, windy beach - and I couldn't find anything against it in the rules.

Friday 14th Feb

In which I spend the day with my true Valentine - the ocean! It was such a beautiful day that I had a lovely long walk and a swim. When I got home Jamie actually cooked me dinner - a miracle! He must actually love me.

With Love,

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