We left Segovia with beautiful memories. Located just an hour north of Madrid, this appealing medieval town with a population of 56.000, offers impressive architecture, amazing nature and delightful cuisine. It's also home to people who are genuinely happy living in this medieval ambiance.
Segovia’s history dates back to the 2nd century bc when the Romans arrived. They gifted the city a world-famous aqueduct. This aqueduct remains one of the largest preserved structures of its kind. I won’t describe the aqueduct or rave about its marvels, as that’s already well-known. But here’s the interesting part: locals believe the aqueduct wasn’t built by the Romans but by the devil himself.
According to legend, there was a girl living in Segovia whose job was to fetch water from the lower regions and carry it uphill. It was an exhausting and thankless task. One day she stood in the street and cried out, I’m so tired. I’d give anything for the water to flow into the city center by itself. At that moment a handsome man appeared before her. He told her he could grant her wish, but on one condition: once his work was done, she would have to give him her soul. But we adults know what that really means.
The girl realized the man was the devil, but she accepted the offer nonetheless. However, she added a condition of her own: the seductive man must finish the work before the first rooster crowed. The devil and his little helpers began building the aqueduct at an incredible pace. Meanwhile the girl understanding the dreadful consequences of her deal, began to pray fervently and plead for God’s help. God heard her prayers and accepted her remorse. The first rooster crowed before the devil could place the final stone. As a result the devil fled, leaving the girl unharmed.
When the townspeople awoke the next morning, they were delighted to see this new water transport system. Some even say that certain marks on the stones are the devil’s fingerprints.
I asked the locals and according to them, the aqueduct is still used occasionally. Online sources claim it’s functional even today, but the truth is, it only collects water during rainy periods, which is then used later.
Every time I pass Segovia, I find myself stopping in front of the aqueduct and saying, Wow! But the aqueduct is merely the gateway to the city. We decided to step inside and get to know this charming town better. During my visit, I was accompanied by my friend Sofía, who has lived here with her family for over two years.
I was curious about what it feels like to live in the Middle Ages and how, despite the challenges, one could still bring joy and happiness to others. I asked her, What’s life like here? How does it compare to Madrid? She replied, Every time I return from Madrid, I say, "Ah, finally Segovia. What a calm and peaceful place." Life here is much more relaxed. But there’s one downside to the city: it can be a bit boring. Still there are discos and bars. We have a bar where we gather every Friday, Sofía shared with a smile.
One of Sofía's favorite bars is El Sitio, a place offering free and abundant fried octopus bites. They usually enjoy vino con hielo (wine with ice) or vermut if the weather is cold. The atmosphere at this bar is fantastic. My personal favorite however, is Jose María located near Plaza Mayor. It's a more elegant and sophisticated spot, with incredibly polite staff and exquisite tapas. For instance, a glass of wine costs 2.50 euros, while more luxurious drinks are around 5 euros.
Despite its proximity to Madrid life here is more affordable. For example, renting a two-bedroom antique apartment costs 600 euros per month. Local products are reasonably priced too. At a market we visited, fruits were sold for as low as 1.19 euros per kilo. Buying fruit here is a true delight. Segovia is far removed from the stereotypical image of Spain. Winters are cold and it even snows.
If you’re looking for a true winter atmosphere, Segovia is the place to be. For many, Spain evokes images of flamenco, warm weather and beautiful people like Penélope Cruz. But here you can go snowboarding or skiing. Just 30 minutes away is a ski resort called Navafría, a fantastic destination. And Pinilla, located an hour away offers an equally remarkable winter experience.
Segovia is not just about history. It also boasts a unique local cuisine. We visited a restaurant called Maracaibo, known for its specialties, including milk-fed lamb sourced from the finest farms in Segovia. The dishes are slow-cooked at low temperatures. The restaurant also offers innovative flavors like ice cream made from their famous red wines and low-temperature cooked pig’s ears. Segovia wines rated over 90 points, further enhance the dining experience.
While talking about Segovia's historical wonders, we must not overlook the Alcázar castle. Segovia is closely associated with Spain’s famous Catholic Monarchs, Isabella and Ferdinand. After uniting Spain and reclaiming it from the Moors in the 15th century, the couple chose Segovia’s Alcázar as their family residence. This castle is one of the inspirations behind Disney’s fairytale castles. Entry is 10 euros and you should definitely opt for the tower climb. Though the castle’s history dates back to the 10th century, it suffered significant damage in an 1862 fire. Much of what we see today are masterful replicas, but the displayed armor is entirely authentic, offering a glimpse into the surprisingly petite stature of people from that era.
Finally we visited Palacio Real de La Granja de San Ildefonso, just 11 km from Segovia. Built in 1724 by King Philip V, this summer palace is akin to a Spanish Versailles. Its magnificent gardens, fountains and rich tapestry collection are a must-see. However, reachin the palace without a car is challenging. A taxi ride from Segovia might be an option.
Like Toledo, which I’ve visited before, Segovia offers a journey back to medieval Spain. While some aspects have been modernized, much remains unchanged since the 15th century. Its natural beauty, poppy fields, snowy mountains and unique history make it an unforgettable destination. I highly recommend exploring Segovia and the other treasures of Spain. Take care and travel with love.
