Yesterday and today — although our past and our future have many similarities, sometimes they couldn't be more different. But even with all the differences and changes, you can always discover a few constants that run through the course of history. Especially here in Japan, it's usually not difficult to make a connection between the present and the past, and it's often very interesting to see what you discover.
Many shrines and temples in this country have a long history. Even though they have changed their appearance over time, you are often walking on historic ground. At first glance, you may not immediately be aware, but if you look closely, you cannot miss it.
And even though cities like Tokyo sometimes change and transform at a rapid pace, fortunately, this change happens much more slowly and cautiously in places like this. Thankfully, Tokyo has been spared from major disasters in recent decades, allowing some spots in this fascinating city to retain their old charm.
One example of this is the Tomioka Hachiman-gū Shrine in Monzen-Nakachō, which I visited during my last trip to the Japanese capital. The shrine is located in Tokyo's Koto district and is one of the city's most important Shinto shrines. It was founded in 1627 during the early Edo period, when the Fukagawa area was reclaimed through land reclamation. Tomioka Hachiman-gū is dedicated to the god of war, Hachiman, and quickly became a spiritual center for the growing city, visited by ordinary residents as well as samurai and merchants.
It became particularly famous for the Fukagawa Hachiman Matsuri, one of the three great festivals of Edo, in which magnificently decorated mikoshi are carried through the streets. Throughout its history, the shrine has been destroyed and rebuilt several times, most recently after the air raids of World War II, but its extensive grounds, imposing torii gate, and tranquil atmosphere still preserve the character of a historic sanctuary in the middle of modern Tokyo.
The current main building (honden) of Tomioka Hachiman-gū dates back to the post-war period, specifically the 1950s. The original shrine from the Edo period was completely destroyed in 1945 during the air raids on Tokyo, and the complex was subsequently rebuilt in traditional style but with more modern construction methods. As a result, today's main building combines historical design elements with the solid architecture of the early postwar period and continues to look as if it dates from a time long past.
I found a print of a ukiyo-e woodblock that shows us what the shrine complex might have looked like in earlier centuries. The color woodblock print is called “Fukagawa hachimangū keidai” and was created in 1856 by Utagawa Hiroshige as part of his late master series “One Hundred Famous Views of Edo.” In this series, he depicts important places in the former Japanese capital with showing a great sense of the seasons and everyday scenes.
The picture shows the grounds of Tomioka Hachiman-gū in the former Fukagawa destrict, which is now called Monzen-Nakachō, and it combines the tranquil architecture of the shrine with the lively bustle of visitors. The scene creates a nice blend of a charming atmosphere and real-life observations, giving us a vivid impression of life in Edo during the 19th century.
The shrine grounds have changed a lot over time. For example, today there are not as many tall trees. But when I look more closely, I can still relate to the past and connect it with the present.
Because I have visited this place myself, it is fun to look at these old pictures a little more closely. It gives you a completely different sense of the here and now. Thinking about it, I once again find myself wishing for a time machine to take me back to the past. It would be fascinating to compare what this shrine looked like 100, 200, 300, and even 400 years ago, and to personally witness the changes over time.
But well, we'll have to wait a little longer for time travel. And that's why I'm simply looking forward to my next visit to Tokyo in the hopefully not too distant future, where I'm sure I'll discover another wonderful side of my favorite city...
