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Happy new month to everyone in Monday Needle Work 🎉✨
May this new month bring fresh ideas, steady hands, happy customers, and overflowing creativity. May our stitches be neat, our designs stand out, and our work be blessed and profitable. Here’s to growth, grace, and beautiful craftsmanship all month long 🙏🧵👗
Today I will be sharing with you How to Sew a Pencil Long Skirt with Hip and Butt Padding (Step-by-Step)
Materials Needed
‎2 yards Ankara fabric
‎Lining fabric ( 1½ yards)
‎Half-inch foam for hip pad
‎Zip (9 inches)
‎Matching thread, scissors, tape rule, chalk.
Body Measurements Given
‎Waist: 26 inches
‎Hip : 34 inches
‎Full length: 45 inches
‎Cutting the Ankara Fabric (Outer Skirt)
‎Fold the Ankara fabric lengthwise, right sides together.
‎Measure 45 inches from the top and mark the skirt length + 2inch for the hem .
‎
‎Waist: 26 ÷ 4 = 6.5
‎Add allowance = 1inch for waist dart
‎From the waist down 8inches, mark the hip line.
‎At the hip line, measure ¼ of hip my initial hip is 34 because of the hip pad I'll be doing on the skirt I add 2inch to my hip measurement (36 inches)
‎36 ÷ 4 = 9 inches
‎Connect waist to hip, then slope straight down to the hem for a pencil shape.
‎Add 2 inch seam allowance at the sides and 2 inches at the hem.
‎Cut front and back, adding zip allowance (1½ inches) at the back.
‎Cutting the Lining with Hip Pad
‎Fold the lining fabric the same way.
‎Use hip measurement 34 inches for lining:
‎34 ÷ 4 = 8.5 inches
‎Cut lining length 2 inch shorter than skirt (43 inches).
Hips and butt padding
First step drafting out the skirt pattern without side seam allowance only allowance for zip was added
Second step
Working with the front pattern from the waistline I came down by 1.5inch on the hip line I go inward by 5inches and on the kenn line I go up by 2inch connect the point together to form a curve and also indicate the up and down on pattern to avoid confusion then Cut.
To the back pattern zipper allowance was added 1.2inches on the waist line go down by 1.5 the same thing I did for the front pattern then on the hip line go inward by 1inch after the zip allowance on the knee go up by 2inch to get my under butt I measure from my back waist to under butt is 14inch the indicate it on a pattern and go inward by 4 inches connect those points together and cut also indicate the up and down.
Third step ‎Cutting the foam (½ inch thick) pad
Place the pattern on the foam to cut I make use of ½ inch foam and I cut 2 each indicate up and down on the foam as well to avoid stress.
Step four trimming and covering of foam pad
Trim edge of the foam cut out for perfect Lay on the body after that I use interfacing and making use of paper stay ironed it both on the front and back of each cut.
Step five joining of the foam pad
Before joining it together I run a stitch on each part twice then join together.
Sewing Process
Sew darts on both Ankara and lining (front and back).
‎Join side seams of Ankara skirt, leaving back zip opening.
‎Sew lining side seams the same way.
‎Attach the hip pad foam to the lining using light stitching or hand tack—do not attach to Ankara fabric.
‎Insert lining into main fabric skirt, right sides facing, starting from the under stitch after that I run a stitch around the waist before attaching the waistband to secure the fabric and the lining after the waistband been attached next is Fixing the zipper to the dress by measuring the exact waste 26 and for the hip I measure it then go outside by half inches after the hip measurement to form that curve for the hip to sit on it and stitch the remaining part,leaving the slit opening of 20 inches . Give it a good press this is my second time of attaching hip Pad to my dress. Hope you give yours a try.
Side, front and back view
Do you have a blessed day and thanks for stopping by on my post always.