Hello hive
Blessed new week to my amazing Monday Needlework Community. May this week bring fresh inspiration, steady hands, creative designs, and abundant success to us all. Let’s stitch greatness together!
Today I will be showing you how to make this in-built neckline collar dress with a separate ruched skirt on it. I make use of two trouser yard of fabric to achieve this beautiful dress I make for myself.
Measurements
Shoulder: 14
Bust: 34
Waist: 26
Hip: 35
Full Length: 46
Waist Length: 16 (front), 15 (back)
Empire Line: 24
Sleeve Length: 23
Round Sleeve: 12 (bicep), 10 (elbow), 8 (wrist)
CUTTING THE BODICE
Drafting the Front Bodice
Mark shoulder line = 14 ÷ 2 = 7”.
Neck width = 3”. Neck depth 6".
From shoulder slope down 1”.
Bust line = 34”.
Waist line = 16”.
waist = 26”.
Mark bust measurement = 34 ÷ 4 = 8½” + 2” allowance.
Waist = 26 ÷ 4 = 6½” + 2” allowance.
From should line, mark empire line = 24”.
Hip measurement = 35 ÷ 4 = 8¾” + 2” allowance.
full length 46 +2" hemming
Shape down of the dress I move 3 in from the initial hip measurement place it on keen cap then connect it to the full length of the dress.
Drafting the Back Bodice
Neck depth = ½”
Waist length = 15”.
add back zipper allowance (1½”).
Use same bust , waist and hip calculations.
** IN-BUILT NECKLINE COLLAR**
This collar is cut together with the bodice (not separate).
Extend neckline upward by 2”.
Widen neckline slightly (½”).
Redraw new neckline curve blending into shoulder.
Cut interfacing in same shape and fuse for firmness.
This gives a standing soft collar effect without attaching a separate piece.
SLEEVE CUTTING
Fold fabric.
Sleeve length = 23”.
Round sleeve (bicep) = 12 ÷ 2 = 6” + 1” allowance.
Elbow = 10 ÷ 2 = 5” + allowance.
Wrist = 8 ÷ 2 = 4” + allowance.
Shape sleeve cap to match armhole measurement.
SEWING PROCESS
Join shoulder seams.
Attach interfaced in-built collar facing and turn neatly.
Sew darts for the front and back
Join side seams.
Insert zipper at back.
Sew and attach sleeves.
Close sleeve seams.
Hem the gown and sleeves neatly.
Before wearing ruched skirt this is the back and front view of it
Cutting process of ruched skirt
Mark out my waist to my hip next I divide my waist and hip circumference by four Waist = 26 ÷ 4 = 6½” + 1”
Hip measurement = 35 ÷ 4 = 8¾” + 1” allowance + extra 2inch because ruched on the side of the skirt
And for the back of the skirt i added back zipper allowance (1½”).
Length of the skirt 30 + 1 hemming
Sewing process of ruched skirt
Join the back and the front on both side by 1 inch. then fix in the zipper after that I go ahead and top stitch on the sewing to create the channel where rope will pass through on both sides then drag it up to form the beauty of the ruched skirt.
This is how I Rock my dress to church on Sunday
Back and front view
Thanks for stopping back do you have a lovely day