Hello hive
Happy new week, ✂️✨
Wishing you a productive and creative Monday ahead. 💫
“Today I’ll be sharing how I made this beautiful blouse with puff sleeves ✂️✨. In my previous post, I showed you how I made a Pencil Skirt with Hip and Butt Enhancement, just with 3 yards of Ankara to achieve the dress. Stay tuned as I take you through the process step by step!”
This elegant princess bustier blouse, as seen in your image, features a fitted bodice with structured cups and soft puff sleeves, giving a neat and stylish look.
Step 1: DRAFTING THE BODICE (FRONT) ON A PATTERN PAPER
Start by drafting the front bodice using your measurements:
Shoulder: 15 inches (7.5 on fold)
Bust: 35 ÷ 4 = 8.75 + 2 allowance
Waist: 27 ÷ 4 = 6.75 + 2 allowance
Half length: 16 inches
Under bust: 13 inches
Mark the neckline (3 inches width, 6 inches front depth V-shape, 1.5 inches back depth round). Connect shoulder to armhole and shape neatly.
Step 2: Creating the Princess Line
From your nipple-to-nipple measurement (7 inches ÷ 2 = 3.5 inches), mark the bust point. Draw a curved princess line from the armhole down through the bust point to the waist. Cut along this line to separate the side panel from the center panel.
Preparing the Fabric
Fold your Ankara fabric into two and place your lining beneath it. Ensure both fabrics are well aligned. Iron your astay (stiffener) onto the fabric and lining pieces to give the blouse structure, especially around the bust area.
Step 3: Bust Cup Shaping
Add 1inches allowance at the bust curve for fullness. This is what gives the bustier its fitted shape. Insert the bust pad between the lining and main fabric when sewing.
Step 4: Cutting the Back Piece
Draft the back bodice using:
Half length back: 15 inches
Same shoulder and waist measurements
Add zipper allowance (1–1.5 inches) at the center back. Keep the neckline at 1.5 inches depth with a round shape.
Step 5: Cutting the Puff Sleeves
For the puff sleeves:
Sleeve length: 9 inches
Cut a wider sleeve cap to allow gathering.
Add collar stay (stiffener) inside sleeve hem to give it structure and puff shape.
Step 6: Sewing the Bodice
Sew the princess seams (center front to side front), carefully shaping around the bust.
Join lining and outer fabric separately, then attach together.
Insert the bust pads before closing.
Sew shoulder seams and side seams.
Step 7: Fixing the Zipper
Attach your zipper at the back opening. Ensure it is straight and neatly finished.
Add your black trimming around the neckline and tip for the blouse
Step 8: Attaching the Sleeves
Gather the top of the sleeve to fit the armhole. Sew neatly and ensure the puff sits well on the shoulder.
Short review Pencil Skirt with Hip and Butt Enhancement
CUTTING
Fold fabric into 4
Length: Mark 42inches + 2 inches (allowance)
Hip line: Measure 9 inches down from waist
Waist: Divide 26 ÷ 4 = 6.5 + 1 inch allowance
Hip: Divide 36 ÷ 4 = 9 + 1 inch allowance
Shape from waist to hip, then slightly taper down for a fitted long skirt
Cut front and back pieces
HIP PAD
Cut 2 small curved foam pieces (oval shape)
Place on side hip area (around hip line)
Tack or stitch lightly to lining
SEWING
Sew darts on front/back fabric and lining separately
Join side seams of the fabric and the lining separately (leave zipper sides)
Fix zipper neatly
Attach waistband (1.5–2 inches wide)
Turn hem at bottom and stitch
Thanks for stopping by hope you find it helpful do you have a lovely day.