Hello hive
Happy new month to everyone in Hive Diy 🎉✨
May this new month bring fresh ideas, steady hands, happy customers, and overflowing creativity.
Today, I will be sharing the full details of the cutting and sewing process of this beautiful exaggerated hip gown I made for my sister’s daughter. 💕
From pattern drafting to structuring the hips, interfacing, lining, and final finishing — I’ll be explaining every step carefully.
Materials Needed:
‎Mikado fabric – 1 trouser yard
‎Lining – 1.5 yards
‎Collar stay – 1 yard
‎Airstay/interfacing – 1 yard
‎Paper stay/interfacing – 1 yard
‎Zipper and thread
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‎Measurements:
‎Shoulder: 13 inch
‎Bust: 26 inch
‎Half waist: 12 inch
‎Waist: 23 inch
‎Empire line for hip: 17 inch
‎Hip: 28 in (add 2 in for exaggerated hip = 30 in)
‎Full length: 34 inch
‎Sleeve length: 7 inch
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‎Cutting the Gown
‎Draft the bodice: Using the shoulder, bust, waist, and empire line measurements, draft the front and back bodice. Include seam allowances (2 inch) and darts for shaping. Mark the half waist on both front and back; this is important before cutting the skirt to maintain the correct fit.
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‎Neckline: For the front, mark 2.5 in width and 3 inch depth; for the back, 2.5 in width and 1 inch depth. Cut interfacing (paper stay for the lining and airstay for the main fabric) to stabilize the neckline.
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‎Exaggerated Hip
‎Normal hip ÷ 4 = 28 ÷ 4 = 7".
‎You added 2" extra fullness (28 + 2 = 30).
‎So 30 ÷ 4 = 7½".
‎Mark 7½" on empire/hip line. Shape smoothly from waist to exaggerated hip.
‎Important: For the down (lower) part of the dress, use the exact exaggerated hip measurement (30 total ÷ 4 = 7½" + 2inch Seam allowance) at the hip area before shaping downward. Do not reduce it; that fullness creates the hip effect. Then interface the main fabric with airstay and for the lining I used collar stay exaggerated hip effect I needed.
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‎Sleeves: Draft a 7 in sleeve length using the shoulder measurement. Include ease and 3inch seam allowance because of the elastic at the tip.
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‎Sewing the Gown
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‎Attach lining to the main dress, turning the neckline inside for a clean finish
‎Sew darts on the bodice front and back. Join shoulders and side seams.
‎Attach sleeves and sew side seams of sleeves.
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‎Sew skirt panels to the bodice at the empire line, ‎Attach lining to the skirt matching the exaggerated hip fullness evenly to the upper part.
‎Insert zipper at the back and press seams neatly.
‎ ensuring the flare maintains the exaggerated hip shape.
Front and back views
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Thanks for stopping by, great day to you all