So we get a few days off just like everyone else for New Year's and I figured I would take a motorcycle trip over the mountain to Pai. This probably doesn't register on most traveler's radar because it never really took off as far as tourism is concerned. I suspect that this has a lot to do with the fact that this part of the country isn't terribly accessible and the only "normal person" way of getting there is going through a mountain pass that is very winding and quite dangerous if you are not careful. There are tons of accidents on this road and most of that is due to lack of experience.
However, if you are patient, capable, and careful, Pai is a truly wonderful place in the far north of Thailand.
This mountainous area is very different from most of the rest of Thailand and because of the elevation and distance north it is actually a bit cold this time of year. Getting up in the morning or staying up late at night is going to result in the need for trousers and a coat, which is something that we don't actually use all that often in Thailand. This is especially true if you are riding a motorbike over the mountain passes.
This is a guy that was giving me a thumbs up because, well I don't know for sure, perhaps he is just a very nice person and that is always welcome. I like to think that it is because I know how to operate a motorcycle and I am not trying to be mean to others out there when I say this, but the expats that live here aren't exactly known for their skills on Thai roads. When I say "skills" I should say adaptability because the roads here are basically lawless and if anyone comes over here with notions that the roads are going to be regulated and have some sort of rule structure like the west, they tend to get into accidents even though they were following the rules of the west, which don't apply here.
I suppose that is an entirely different story though.
Maybe this isn't so special to people that live in the Alps or Rocky Mountains but in Thailand, these elevations are about as high as it gets in this country and experiencing a little bit of cold is actually a nice break from the normally very hot and sweaty temperatures that those of us that live here kind of expect on a daily basis. For the most part, there is no "winter" in Thailand and you have to get up here in the far north to even get a little taste of that.
I did see some tragic scenes when I was in Pai because like I mentioned before this is not a mainstream destination. Years ago it was a primary location for backpackers but over the past few years and according to the people I know that have been here much longer than I have, the backpacking industry was the first one that the government for some reason, has been trying to eliminate for many years. I do not know their motivation but because of this, and now with Covid being stacked on top of that, Pai is basically abandoned and completely devoid of tourism. According to the owner of this shop that sign has been up for 5 years as a statement to the government that has been attempting to change Thailand to a non-backpacking country even though they are almost certainly aware that the tourism in Pai doesn't have any other option since package tourists will not come here and the airport is so small that commercial flights are few and far between, not to mention too expensive for budget travelers.
Again, this "gripe" is likely better left for another story and I'll instead focus on the good and funny such as this sign advertising to sell fish food.
I sincerely hope that Thailand never fixes stuff like this because it is amusing and you still understand what they are trying to say even though it is totally wrong.
One of the most stunning views of the area is the border at Mai Sai where in the distance you see Myanmar and of course a giant barbed-wire covered fence. Thailand vilifies Burmese migrant workers and tends to blame a lot of their problems on that country and their inhabitants. There is a great deal of xenophobia towards the Burmese in Thailand, yet for the most part they are highly sought after laborers because they tend to be more dedicated to their craft and will work for lower wages. At least that is what I have been told - I've only ever met a couple of people from Myanmar.
It was a fun motorcycle trip with my pal from Chiang Mai and these days you can stay anywhere for next to nothing since there are basically zero tourists anywhere. From a purely selfish point of view this has worked out very nicely for me.