Pulau Buru
Teluk Tifu, Pulau Buru
I am awestruck. The vista before me is gobsmackingly beautiful. I have seen so many stunning vistas in our sailing adventures to date but I'm almost speechless at the beauty of the natural harbour at Tifu. And me being speechless is saying something. The secret harbour reveals itself little by little as we slowly make our way through the channel from the open sea to the protected waters.
It's a small harbour, just enough room for the 14 boats that are still a part of the Indonesian Rally. It is surrounded by lush green hills resplendent with coconut palms and rainforest. There are just a couple of small sandy beaches evident at low tide, rock faces that fall into the sea and a large mangrove swamp at the top of the harbour with a treed rocky island that sits just in front. On the right hand side of this glorious harbour sits the small village of Tifu. In the morning light the misty clouds sit in the valleys and the bay is almost glassed out. A slice of paradise for sure. A big slice, in fact.
As participants of the rally, we were invited to Teluk Tifu - Teluk meaning Bay. We were met at sea by a couple of locals in a longboat who led us into this secret harbour. How they knew we were nearing the channel, we don't know, but that was forgotten as we motored slowly in, admiring the magnificent landscape. As soon as we were anchored small wooden boats were paddled our way. Excited adults and children alike called out "Halo mister, Halo missus", their faces lit up with big smiles. What a wonderful welcome.
The welcome got bigger and better the next day when we went ashore to the village. The villagers couldn't contain their excitement at our visit and smiled and waved as if we were visiting royalty. The amount of photos and videos taken of us made me think that i was, in fact, an Australian princess. We were treated to music and singing by children at the jetty then led procession style to a covered area of seating for an official welcome. There were speeches, more singing, and traditional dancing as well. Several different age groups performed dances but it was the youngest group of primary school girls that stole the show.
We were treated to a feast of local culinary delights, some delicious and some not quite for my palate, but the effort the women of the village went to was enormous. There was a cooking competition for the women judged by our very own Rick and Sanne from Incentive, and a fishing competition for the local men.
There followed canoe races with some hilarious shenanigans and surprising finishes. Some sabotaging went on between 1st and 2nd place contenders that backfired when the 3rd place rivals swooped in to win one of the races.
official welcoming party
primary school girls were a highlight
Wacky races
Hubby covering his bases
The local children were quite shy, the younger ones having never actually seen a white person before. One young lady thrust her 3 year old into my arms to take a photo. The poor lad was terrified. I know I can be scary sometimes but that side of me has only reared up in the past when my teenage daughter brought boys home. A gorgeous little girl stole my heart. She would walk passed me and stroke my hair or trail her finger across my arm whenever I was in the village. I grabbed her one time for a photo and she gave me a big smoochy kiss on my cheek. Aah, my heart 💗.
There were a couple of tours organised by the village for us. One was a sunrise tour that started at 4am with a two hour drive in the back of utes to the top of a mountain. Those of you that know me have already guessed correctly that I skipped that tour. Funny thing though, Indonesian time as opposed to Australian time being what it is, they left at 5.15am, had to walk up a slippery road of mud the utes couldn't get up and missed the sunrise completely. The yachties were given lunch though. At 8am.
We did join the longboat trip along the coast to the waterfalls known as Air Babunyi and that was another magnificent sight to behold. On the way we stopped at a waterfall that fell straight into the sea. Spectacular. Then there was Air Babunyi itself. This was a series of waterfalls that tumbled over rock ledges and into a big lagoon. There was a wide sandpit and then the ocean. The lagoon flowed into the sea at the end of the spit. Icy cold fresh water meets warm salty seawater.
The locals from Mepa Village met us here with traditional music, dancing and singing. Again, there was much excitement to have us white folk visit. Lunch was provided, the most delicious chicken we've had so far, and having learnt our ways, there were plenty of cold bintangs to be had. So, we enjoyed the amazing landscape while the locals enjoyed the strange white people. All things are even then.
Amazing waterfall!
this lad took a shine to Hubby
Our last day there involved another ceremony, this one attended by the first ever female Regent for the whole region. It was a huge honour for the village to have the Regent visit and it was wonderful to share their festivities.
Tifu village has been a highlight for me so far. Like the village of Rutong (previous post), Tifu is a traditional village, this one with roughly 300 villagers, all happy people who have virtually no possessions. Yes they have electricity and mobile phones, but that is it when it comes to modern life. They are laid back, joyful and so very friendly and welcoming. What they have they share. We bought fresh fish from the man who had caught just enough for the family's food for the day. We were given tomatoes by a lady from her own kitchen when she had none to sell in her little shop. Hubby was gifted a traditional headscarf when he said he'd like to buy one.
the only bike I saw in the village, missing seat and all
even a nearly-white picket fence
a pair of photo worthy faces
traditional wood splitting methods still used
which little piggy went to market
I feel so blessed to have spent time in Tifu. To be reminded of true kindness. To be shown generosity from people that have so little. To have my faith in humanity restored. These people have so little and yet all they asked for was a hello, a wave, and a selfie with us.
Tifu, you will always have a special place in my heart.
Until next time, Watusi Woman - humbled sailor, out.
early morning sunrays