Koh Muk, Charlie's Beach
Thai waters, here we are. Our third south east asian country we've sailed into since we left Australia in June 2022.
We left Langkawi heading north and in just a few short miles we were in Thai waters. Now, instead of Pulau which means island in Malay Bahasa, it's Koh which is Thai for island. Our first anchorage was Koh Tarutao for a quick overnight stop after a long day sail.
An early start the next morning and we arrived at Koh Liang Tai early in the afternoon. Which means we had time to explore 😁. There are actually 2 islands here, Liang Tai and Liang Nuea. There was a small backpacker style rock-climbing resort here on Nuea but it appeared to have shut down. Both of these islands have sheer limestone cliffs rising up from the water that would make for awesome climbing. Add in the small beaches, each of the softest white sand I've had my toes in for quite some time and you certainly have the perfect rock climbers haven.
There are some rudimentary shelters on each island set back from the beaches that appear to be fishermen's temporary homes in between fishing days. We took a sunset stroll on Liang Tai as it had a beautiful natural cave and a lovely beach that curved around one end of the island. The contrast of clear green waters, white sand, limestone rock streaked with white and orange, and lush green foliage and we felt like we'd found a Thailand paradise.
Koh Tiang islands
Koh Tiang Tai
Koh Tiang Tai
Koh Tiang Nuea
Koh Tiang Tai at sunrise
Sunrise start leaving Koh Tiang islands
That was only the beginning of Thailand's paradises waiting to be explored. Our next destination was Koh Muk, a little further north and on our way to Phuket. As we neared the island and the bay known as Haad Farang, we were excited to see stunning white sand, turquoise waters, and a couple of very cool beach bars serving a few rows of sun loungers. This beach, locally known as Charlie's Beach is the best spot to watch the sun sink into the water to the west. And we could enjoy the show with cocktails made to order. Yum. 🍹
Charlie's Beach
Mong's Reggae Bar
Koh Muk offers a very special and unique attraction to anyone who makes the effort to visit this quiet little island. The Emerald Cave. In a word? Spectacular! This special place is a privilege to see. You have to take a boat, be it a long tail, a dinghy or a kayak and make your way around the limestone cliff headland from Charlie's Beach to a little cave opening in the rock wall.
You leave your mode of transport outside and enter the cave by swimming in. It quickly becomes pitch black as you swim the 80 metre winding tunnel to the other side. Head torches are a must. The surge of the sea inside the tunnel conjured up images of a giant monster rumbling and grumbling in his sleep.
The other side opens up into a beautiful green lagoon of crystal clear water, fine white sand and jungle forest. This other side also happens to be in the middle of the island, with steep cliff walls climbing at least 150 metres high in a complete circle. It is with hushed reverence that we took in this amazing natural phenomenon.
Entrance to Emerald Cave, 80 metre tunnel
The hidden lagoon
Tour boats loaded with passengers flood the cave and hidden lagoon from 10am til about 4pm each day. That time of day lights up the lagoon to an emerald colour as the water reflects the green foliage surrounding the cliff walls. We dinghied our way around at about 4.30pm and we might not have seen the same vibrant water but we were lucky enough to be the only ones there. We had a camera malfunction so returned again the next morning and, although we went early, we did have to share this paradise with a handful of people. The whole experience was worth doing twice though, even without an excuse.
The Emerald Cave is not the only attraction on Koh Muk. We, we, we. We took a walk into the local town with a side trip through a fishing village on stilts that remains very traditional in their way of life. We followed the 'orange brick road' as it meandered through rubber plantations, passed bungalows and small resorts. We took a wrong turn and ended up at a beach at low tide, with traditional longtail fishing boats sitting high and dry. We got caught in a heavy downpour of tropical rain. We stopped for refreshingly cold fruit shakes and indulged in thai banana pancakes drizzled with chocolate.
We made our way back to Charlie's Beach in time for another sunset and another taste test of the cocktail list. This fabulous day finished with a feast of thai cuisine that left us overfull and most content.
Until next time, Watusi Woman - stuffed sailor, out.
Best sunset sky ever!
