The next part of our journey is from Baubau to Bonerate, still part of the Sulawesi Islands, then onwards south to Gili Bodo near Flores.
Bonerate was an overnight sail of 147nm and 27 hours. It was a stunning night with a beautiful sunset followed by an amazing moonset, the a pitch black sky with a gazillion stars. The anchorage at Bonerate is just off a little beach, with white sand, wonderful coral and a lovely little village not far away.
This village is known for its boat building in the traditional ways. We had a wander through the town, followed by a dozen or so kids, and found a little warung for lunch. Well, it was really just a room with a long table and stools. No kitchen. There was a menu on the wall with 6 choices. The only choice available was Nasi Goreng. Nasi Goreng it was then. We're not sure where the food was cooked, but somebody got busy in a kitchen somewhere in the village and serves of Nasi Goreng appeared after a short time.
During that short time we were like monkeys in a zoo. We had a changing array of children's faces staring at us, smiling and waving. Some of them were brave enough to say hello, others ran off when we stepped outside. I gathered them together for a group photo with Hubby. Can you pick the kid who was less impressed? 😉.
The boat building was something to see. They were lined up along the shore in various sizes and stages of completion. Along side them were the carcasses of dilapidated boats, scattered like the backbones and ribcages of long dead animals. It was quite amazing to see the piles of timber left out in the weather to bow in the sun so they were the right shape to use. Also the way the boards were fitted together perfectly. And the caulking done by hand, no disposable cartridges there. A bucket and a spatula. There were 2 ferry-sized large boats, one red and one green, that were almost finished. Both had been pushed down the shore by digging trenches by hand and using sandbags and logs to keep the boats upright. A long slow process on a shore line that has a long, gentle slope into the sea.
The red boat, after a 4 year building process, was launched the very next morning at high tide and towed to the jetty, ready for an engine install. Unfortunately, the locals didn't give us the heads up so we weren't close enough to share the incredible sight that it must have been.
boat carcasses left to rot
the red boat we missed being launched
There were 10 boats anchored at Bonerate so a beach BBQ was sorted for one of the evenings. What a great time we all had. There was a small fire with a grill on it for cooking and a huge bonfire to sit around. Because we need a fire when it's bloody hot already. Or should I say, the pyromaniac males of the group need a fire to poke and prod and feed with logs. The bintangs flowed, the music played and the sun sank majestically in front of us.
Gili Bodo was our next stop. A tropical island with no villages. Just us, the reef and the monkeys. The anchorage was a channel that curved around an amazing coral reef. Once anchored, an anchor and chain that was clearly visible through the water, I might add, the coral reef started at our stern. Snorkellers paradise on my doorstep. It doesn't get much better than that. The waters were glassed out every morning and evening and there was no current to speak of. My days started with a snorkel before breakfast and continued throughout the day. I couldn't get enough of this magnificent reef of spectacular coral and incredible array of brilliantly coloured fish.
I love to snorkel, in case you haven't figured that out yet, and to have 2 beautiful anchorages in a row with amazing reefs to snorkel on was really something special.
Until next time, Watusi Woman - living my best life, out.