Almost every time when I come back to the Sunshine Coast here in Australia there is a big swell rolling in. It was not different this time. For the last two weeks since I´m here we had almost constantly good to perfect surf conditions here. I almost forgot how good the surf here can be, especially in winter time. I guess this was the first good sweel of the season.
As I´m living on the 8th Floor opposite the beach I do not need any forecast, I just step out on the balcony and see this...
Since I did not had my own board until a few days ago I was forced to watch all the others surf these absolute perfect waves. I stopped counting the barrels that got ridden as almost every wave here barrels on such a swell. The only downside here are the crowds...its insane. It was bad 3 years ago but it only got worse. On this spot alone I counted at least 50 people in the water.
Anyway after my coffee with the Lorikee gang I grabbed my camera and went for a walk along the beach to take some photos. If I can´t surf it myself I want at least to take some nice shots of the action.
I didn't just see one perfectly surfed barrel after another, I also spotted my first Galas. Another local bird that I really like. Not as common here as the Lorikee but at least as beautiful.
Below are some more barreling waves and a sequence of photos that show what can go wrong when waves are breaking that fast and hollow. You really need to be quick when popping up and its really hard to keep your ballance on such fast waves.
On days like these you see such wipeouts all the time and sometimes they look really nasty. Just yesterday I heard that a 14 year young boy almost died at that beach on the weekend. He must have hit his head and got unconscious for almost 15 minutes. He´s good again but it could have ended very very bad for him.
Sometimes you´re just lucky and get the right wave and everything works like it should. Like that guy below who has surfed a perfect barrel. Unfortunately I have no photos of him getting out of it.
The waves this weekend where not only looking perfect some of them also were quite huge like you can see on that last photo. On some of these days I would have not paddled out even if I had a board. :)
The swell is now slowly fading away and we´re waiting for the next big one hitting the coast. Until then we enjoy the other beautiful things this area has to offer like the Mount Coolum in the back that I will walk up to in the coming days.
Hope you liked that series of surf shots as I will be doing much more of these from all the different spots here on the sunshine coast.
you will find this post on pinmapple as well
[//]:# (!pinmapple -26.67047 lat 153.10875 long Perfect swell hits the Sunshine Coast in Australia d3scr)
