'' The wind was strong Northeast, my board was a 5'6 accelerator, with my Dear Friend BMX, Bernardo Martins in our favorite Studio: Regência, Espirito Santo .''
Yo.... Good Morning
all good guys!?
This week marks the 3rd anniversary of this session with my friend, the professional photographer Bernardo Martins Xavier, on the peak of Tamar, walking about 1 km towards the Indigenous Reserve.
Very interesting because we can see a pattern of high waves in regency generally from August to October .
This happens because it has been enough time for the river to carry an amount of sand to the peak of the Point, creating a perfect kilometer bank for tubes. This is something rare, a phenomenon of waves that we can find in only a few places in the world, and like Regência, I don't know any. The ground is sandy, the waves break in a triangular pattern, and depending on the swell in a dynamic similar to Namibia, Africa, long lefts.
I also remember when I started surfing in Regência 12 years ago... epic conditions were happening in tubes much closer to the river, like in the "Toneis" spot and "Placa" spot. The wave at Boca do Rio was also incredibly tubular.
There was a Check on Youtube by a dear friend from Regencia, Robson Barros, aka "Pontinha" who performed daily checks on Youtube and if you search for something like "Check Robson Barros Regencia Boca do Rio", you will come across bizarre conditions. Crystalline blue water and a 10 second tube, of course, ending with a minimum of 4 maneuvers.
So, we can see how the dynamics of the beach is changing a lot after the Qualified Crime 8 years ago that happened at the Mariana Dam, Minas Gerais. The rupture of that dam leaked and contaminated the entire Rio Doce, and where did all these chemicals end up? At the mouth of the Rio de Regencia, exactly in this magical place.
This session was the origin of a Surf Film by Airdrop Culture called "Resistence" , seeking to emphasize the incredible ability to reconstruct and restructure nature's systems.
It was 3 years ago that my friend Bernardo Martins and I, basically one of the best aquatic photographers I know, decided to hike this peak like we've never hiked before. We passed countless sand corners perfect for intubating, but we wanted more. And that's when we found this place!
I remember that I completed about 20 tubes, at least 5 tubes in sequence. Ok, the performance, equipment, experience and spirit of the surfer influence the session a lot, but we had found the perfect spot.
Bernardinho would swim against the current with a stake box that he repaired himself, and I would simply catch the waves, make my tubes. We were in brutal sync. And when we got home there were a lot of amazing pictures. Between Videos and photographs recorded by a Sony Alpha.
After 4 hours surfing alone ... it's time to walk back to " Tamar " where we stopped the car. I remember meeting some friends catching some waves in front of Tamar... I also remember having top athletes in the water like Lucas Chumbo, Ian Gouveia, many photographers in the area, fighting in the water... Things that can happen when something grows in size Utopia, too much Ecstasy for too little Equanimity.
ARDRP SURF POSTER BY FRED BARROS Airdrop Culture.
I remember having a conversation on this swell with a great friend from Vila "Hauley" it was late afternoon at "Boca do Rio Spot", I was watching the sunset alone, when on one side came Hauley and on the other came ... Each one in their own path seeking reflection and connection with the middle of the regency biome.
I also remember talking to Hauley about how places rich in environmental resource, history, and spiritual energy in fact, places where a lot of things happened in the past with indigenous peoples and local people, are places to practice utopia today, parties, commodification, drugs , among a few other problems.
That's an interesting analysis, but why do holy places tend to become trendy?
I believe it is simply because there is enough creative energy of love for everyone who arrives at these places to feel it in one way or another, consciously or unconsciously.
Hope you enjoyed the Post. Surf is life. Aloha.
Respect and Preservation.