''Surfing in itself is an art of great satisfying power... but getting a tube is a step up on the graph of good feelings đ€ .''
Jouney in the Tunnel of Love đ
Yooo. Hello Hive!
Today I share with you a wave of mine in a strong East Swell at Reserva Biologica de Comboios, a place rich in biodiversity, history, culture and lots of good waves. Hope all you enjoy it!!
When a Brazilian want to do something, like get a tube, and he has everything to be successful in whatever it is he will do, he will only lose if he does something wrong, so "voce estĂĄ com a faca e o queijo na mĂŁo" (you're with the knife and the cheese in your hand).
Waves are harmonic mutations that start far away! And much deeper than the high seas. It is a complex between winds, energies, shocks that occur in the structure of our planet. It propagates through space, transports energy and eventually it is dissipated. I hope to be inside a tube like this every time the wave is "dissipated" so the flow of energy comes all the way to my back, pineal, making it with a nice and powerfull split.
If you can get your tubes, without using a jetski, without dirtying the beach, without arriving in a truck invading the sandbank, without fighting in the sand, without living in a crazy mode, in my opinion it is ideal. The place thanks you.
Respect and Preservation đ
The surf season this year in Regencia Augusta is almost over, and if you live in Brazil, or are willing enough to come here, I recommend it as soon as possible!
And if you feel comfortable, you can ask me about the best wave conditions, and I'll share them with you!
I also recommend that whenever you go to a historic place, rich in culture, crafts and local community, that you strengthen it! Because many people come to enjoy the utopian picture that these sacred places present, therefore, they sell products and ideas that are not in essence from the place, just as they do not apply a circular economy system that benefits the village.
Problem: Interference human greed đ
Basically, I see a lot of professional surfers and people arriving in RegĂȘncia and just freaking out at the party, without respect, without trying to understand the depths of the place or anything.
For example, regency is a (REBIO) which means in Portuguese (Biological Reserve) a natural area established by the public authorities with the objective of FULL preservation of all living beings in that environment (biome) and other natural attributes, where it is not permitted direct human interference or environmental modifications.
The point is, beyond the glorious energetic, spiritual root of the place, there is an area for breeding and monitoring leatherback turtles, an incredible animal that chooses the natural birthplace of the Regencia Augusta to follow the lineage.
People have no idea about that... or they even know but pretend to be stupid.
And it's funny because a "simple" jet ski circling along the edge of the sand looks madness to mee!
It's complete madness to want to ignore nature, or give a fuck, just to get "Hype".
I know people who gave up their lives about 50 years ago to take care of all this complex nature present in the place.
With the immense potential of surfing, and the catastrophe that occurred at the mouth of the Doce River, which flows into Regencia, in November 2015, almost 8 years ago, the place opened up space for (controlled) human circulation and tourism. It's understanding. It is a measure that, no matter how much you explore the place, appears to be fundamental for the recovery of the place.
People have no idea about this. And it's funny because the amount of crazy that is normalized there only increases. Currently the biggest problem is the presence of several jet skis circulating along the edge of the sand, aiming for likes and Instagram, however, on the same margin of circulation of these machines with loud noises, there is monitoring of leatherback turtles, an incredible animal that chooses the natural birthplace of the Regency to continue the lineage.
The environmental impacts caused by the use of jet-skis are obvious and intuitive: the vehicles release fuel and/or oil into the sea, produce a strong odor and can compromise fish eggs due to the movement of water, not to mention noise pollution and the risk of collision with fauna.
I know people who gave up their lives around 50 years ago to take care of all this complex nature present in the place, they have already been through horrible situations with big businessmen, companies, and failed project attempts in a brutal capitalist scenario.
And I know people who have been going to this place for 3 years and are trying to go viral on Instagram as a great surfer.
The most interesting thing is that most of the people who use the jet ski in the village are not complete crazy people, they have access to information, but apparently the ego speaks bigger than global empathetic intuition.
I don't want to come out as a hero, but I would like to expose this situation in the world of Surfing.
Surfing is globalizing, which is beautiful, as the initial years of the sport were not easy... and it is a beautiful sport for everyone! however, the surfing scene is nature, and it is essential even for performance to understand the place and all the yes and no of the existing culture.
Surfers respect others, surfers respect the sea, the restinga, the animals, all the fauna and flora as if it were the most delicate canvas on which to paint the most beautiful art.
In the images I was surfing with a 5'6 board model with channels, called "MONGA" the author of the photos was a friend @jvfotos
The wave surfed was at Grower, on the paddle, of course.
I remember that the shorts I was wearing were falling off, and I almost came out of a tube naked.
I hope you enjoy the text, and don't take my interpretation the wrong way, some things need to be said sometimes.
Aloha. đ€
