Hello Hivers. Good Morning guys. 🌞 Here in Brazil it's summer, and I don't know if you're following the news, but it's very hot, really hot, so I'm going to share with you the summer surfing atmosphere here in southeastern Brazil!
Maneuver: Backside Air
Summertime
The summer season in Brazil begins on December 21st and runs until March 21st. During this period, it is very common, along with wave swells, to see swells formed by broken winds, as a result of this? tiny waves spread across the state. It is up to you to study the chart or the surfing conditions with devotion, as the right shot, the right choice, the right spot can greatly influence your satisfaction in surfing. But that's not the only way this possibility of satisfaction will turn...
Basically every time we create a certain positive expectation for a project, action, and this event does not occur as expected, what happens? frustration? yes or no? in surfing it's the same thing, however surfing is a rhythmic portrait of life, where sometimes the waves are good, sometimes not so much, and sometimes horrible, and regardless of the sea condition, it's up to us to know how to enjoy it to the fullest. of the situation, with efficiency and subtlety.
The real thing proves to be the perfect opportunity to enjoy this scenario. It's usually sunny, hot, good for going to the beach.
There are usually a lot of people on the beach surfing or on the sand, with small waves and strong winds, good characteristics for developing in surfing in a personal and in-depth way.
It would be very easy or very unrealistic if all surf sessions were incredible, perfect (in this case, a great day of performance) we know that's not how it works, even with a Kelly Slater himself, there are days and days of inspiration and days basic game, in Brazil we call it (beans with rice).
So, if you are a surfer and live in Brazil, know that the waves during the summer, which usually accompanies work holidays, tend to be small and bad, that is, have fun, go to the beach without too much pressure, take your wife, your son, your friend who is learning to surf or surf like me and Thiago, get in the water and experience the best of the tiny waves.
Thiago Souza, performing a frontside rail move in a wave that hits his knee. Less than half a meter... or "merreca"
Equipment
Because we are in a delicate situation, in terms of waves, a lot of people in the water, I see summer as a perfect opportunity to test new equipment... in this surf session at Ulé beach, a classic surf scene in EspÃrito Santo, called "Ule Surf Clube" I was testing the asymmetric parallelogram with small fin compositions, and it was very different. The first wave I thought I had lost some keel, because having reduced their size, I noticed a big difference in the trough, as if it were the size of an ideal keel.
The point is, when the sea is big, dangerous, high waves, there is more pressure in surfing, so you tend to work safely, without risking too much, and in that movement you just discover a possible modern maneuver or even a new one. hydrodynamics of your board or fin.
Another classic example of summer sea around here is: clear water. In the summer of EspÃrito Santo we have less influence from large easterly swells, or larger swells, so the water is clear and the waves tend to turn blue!
Another very rich point to enjoy during the session, maneuvering while seeing all the sand and bottom is incredible.
This board is 5'8 in size, a model that I was able to develop in the first wave of the ARDRP x Maze Surf Crafts quiver, where Bernardo Martins Xavier, current surfer of M-Bonzer, a very classic and old board, could develop.
Off the Lipe 11:48 am When we perform this maneuver on the suef, the nozzle leaves the crest of the wave and this is compared to a clock hand.
Waves to the right. Also with the greater influence of the south swell, waves to the right predominate, so backside maneuvers in my case, which is goofy, are practiced more than on a right and left day or more left influence along with the east swell.
The wave is small, there are about 100 people behind this wave, but Thiago seems very focused and calm in executing this maneuver, with a certain mastery in how he applies his turn button.
So guys, I came to share with you this surf session that I did with my friend Thiago this week at ule beach, and along with these beautiful photographs taken by Diego silva. But I also came to talk about the learning opportunities that life gives us, when the The scenario appears different or a little more chaotic.
Look for alternatives and maintain a certain pace of development.
Man and the environment, fulfill their desire and purpose if their existence.
Photo art by Matheus Campanha Moreira, taken by BMX, edited by me. With Sanskrit text and mathematical composition by Fritjof Capra.
Nothing great can be created suddenly and at the same time, pressure forms the diamond.
This photograph may not have much meaning for you, but I can explain. This summer drop among around 1000 people was inspired by a Hero from the film Hayao Miyazaki, Director of Studio Ghibli, who created the plot of "Marco" Porco Rosso, this is a very old Japanese comic strip inspired by Miyazaki to make the film. The film inspired us for the session, and I hope to have inspired you to take part in sports, and face the new and more chaotic scenarios that appear with some tranquility and confidence, however.
I hope you enjoyed these images, information about a bit of summer in southeastern Brazil in terms of waves, and this analogy involving life and since life doesn't always prove to be "perfect", it is in these scenarios that we have the opportunity to grow and learn.