On Fridays, a tourist in Israel is like an ant that hastened home. Because either you manage to get to where you were going before sunset, or intercity buses stop running at 4 pm, and you again have "two ways": live Shabbat, where it caught you, or take a taxi at the price of a cruise liner. Before Shabbat, I decided to move to Tel Aviv. Made it just in time for sunset. It was my first Shabbat, and for some reason I assumed that only me and the Arabs would be left on the street in the evening. But where is it! Shabbat utensils are ringing, Shabbat discos are rattling, Jewish people are walking along the embankment.