On a breezy Sunday evening in Ulsoor, the smell of freshly brewed coffee hung in the air. At Maverick & Farmer Café, about 30 coffee enthusiasts came, not just for a coffee tasting, but for a conversation. For a chance to slow down, sip thoughtfully, and learn about what really goes into making that one beautiful cup.
We had six coffees lined up. Each from a different estate. Each carrying its own flavour, its own process, its own story.
But this event wasn’t only about notes and brewing methods. It was about people. The producers who worked season after season, experimenting and refining their techniques. The people who drank it and connected over it, and the community slowly building around Indian specialty coffee.
The Lineup: Six Estates, Six Coffees
The coffees we showcased came from estates across Karnataka and Tamil Nadu:
1. Manohar Mendonca – Sommana Halli Estate
2. Aveen Rodrigues – Melkodige Estate
3. Anil Misquith – Third Share, Tamil Nadu
4. Rohit Pinto – Melukodige Estate
5. Lynn Mascarenhas – St. Margaret Estate (yes, one of them was ours!)
6. Ashish – Skia Coffee
Each coffee brought something different to the table. Some were floral and light, others bold and funky. One even had that playful bubblegum note we teased about earlier. They were naturals, honeys, washed, and wild ferments.
The Conversations That Sparked 🎤
The event kicked off with Sreeram from Maverick & Farmer, who started to brew curiosity in the minds of the enthusiasts. He asked us, the planters, questions that made us pause, think, and answer.
Questions like:
• What inspired these fermentation styles?
• Are Indian coffees finally standing up to international ones?
• What is fermentation? How precisely do you know when to stop before it overferments?
We spoke about the risks behind trying new processing methods, and when they have even gone completely wrong and caused losses. The hard work and lack of sleep during the harvest and irrigation season.
We also spoke about the joy of nailing a ferment. And of course, about the people. Those who work with us on the estates, the ones who help make all this possible, season after season.
From Mold to Magic: The story of Koji Robusta
An experimental ferment that turned into Fine Robusta.
Recently, a famous type of mold called Koji, which is none other than Aspergillus niger, sourced from Japan, undergoes a unique enzymatic fermentation that also involves the yeast Saccharomyces cerevisiae.
This method imparts a refreshing palette of peach flavor to the coffee. Upon tasting, it offers an array of subtle fruity complexities, with memorable flavor profiles of delicate pears, the sweetness of berries, plum and raisin. The rehydrated mold enhances the essence of the bean, revealing nuances beyond its original characteristics.
This transformation of fructose into a refined essence highlights the funky, potent byproducts produced during the fermentation process in our barrels, crafting a robust and unique flavor profile. Our fermentation barrels encapsulate bubbles of distinctive remnants, capturing the essence of excellence.
Rohit Pinto brought up a point that hit home for many producers in the room.
For the amount of work that goes into creating small specialty lots, the precision, the risks, the constant tweaking, the returns just don’t match.
He also mentioned how lot sizes have started getting smaller because it’s often not worth doing it at scale. But despite that, they continue to put in the effort, simply because staying in the customer’s mind matters. These curated, carefully processed lots might not always be the most profitable, but they’re meaningful.
The Story of The Third Share
Anil Misquith shared something that stayed with everyone. “Mother Nature offers her bounty to all,” he said. “She is our provider, and our greatest teacher.”
It is from her that we learn one of the oldest, most enduring laws of the forest. What is given must be shared. This deep wisdom is what gave rise to The Third Share.
Among the Kattunayakan tribes of the Nilgiris, traditional forest dwellers and skilled honey gatherers, it is customary to take only what is needed and leave a share behind. When they harvest honey, they don’t take it all. A portion of the honeycomb is always left for the bears. Another portion is kept for their families. And the final share, the third share, is offered to the rest of the world.
Rooted in this belief, The Third Share now offers more than honey. From coffee to spices, every offering is grown naturally and mindfully, echoing the same ethos of sharing, balance, and respect for the land.
Working with Adivasi communities in the Gudalur valley of the Nilgiris, Just Change aims to economically empower forest-dependent people through ownership, dignity, and community-driven trade. At the heart of it all is the Adivasi Munnetra Sangam (AMS), a grassroots tribal organisation with over 4,000 member families. It’s a reminder that behind every bag of coffee or jar of honey is not just a product, but people, purpose, and a promise to live in harmony with the earth.
Faiyaz Tharkar, barista at Maverick & Farmer, gathered everyone around and told them we’d begin brewing and tasting soon. But first, he handed out cups of freshly ground coffee and asked the guests to take in the aromas - slowly, one by one.
“Smell each one,” he said, “and notice how different they are, even before they’re brewed.”
It was a quiet and curious moment. Heads bent, noses close to the cups, people already beginning their journey into flavour, starting with the scent of the grounds.
We then started brewing our first coffee, Koji’s.
Everyone leaned in, eyes following every move, watching the water temperature, counting the swirls, noting the pauses. It wasn’t just brewing, it was a quiet performance.
There was focus, curiosity, and a quiet buzz of anticipation in the air. This wasn’t just about brewing a cup. It was about uncovering something playful, something unexpected.
When we finally tasted Koji’s. Soft notes of pear, the sweetness of berries, a hint of raisin, and the smooth velvety feel of ripe plum unfolded with each sip.
People paused, surprised.
“Is this even Robusta?” they asked.
I smiled.
“It is. Just not the kind you’ve tasted before.”
The remaining coffees followed one after the other, each one revealing its own little surprise.
Third Share’s coffee stood out with its candied, bubblegum-like sweetness, reminiscent of a scoop of Baskin-Robbins ice cream. There were hints of berries, wild honey, and a jammy finish that lingered long after the last sip.
Rohit’s coffee, on the other hand, was all comfort. Bold hazelnut and rich chocolate notes came through effortlessly, like a hug in a cup.
Don from Third Share shared the story behind this candy cup.
He spoke about the indigenous fermentation process used, one that felt closest to home and most in tune with the local farmers he works with. It was their very first attempt at crafting a specialty coffee, and yet, the results spoke volumes.
Despite being new to the specialty space, the coffee held its own. Even stood out among those from estates with years of experience. A proud moment not just for Don, but for the entire community behind it.
The remaining three coffees were left open for customers to try their hand at brewing.
With guidance from the team, they explored the pouring style, learning how each choice could shape the final cup. It was a hands on, great end to the session, letting everyone connect more deeply with the coffees through their own brews and sips.
About the Author
Lynn Mascarenhas
A creative soul with a passion for photography and crafting exquisite Fine Robustas, I am your dedicated coffee planter, processor, and event planner.
As a qualified wildlife expert and coffee enthusiast, I have embarked on a journey to implement eco-friendly and sustainable practices at the estate while exploring the world of specialty coffee.
Hoping this content made you smile, then upvote a ❤️, follow and write a comment as I would love to know you.