A Spotlight on Kopi Tubruk
“There’s nothing new under the sun”is a timeless phrase that you might have heard once/twice in your lifetime. For those of you who don’t know, this phrase is included in the Book of Ecclesiastes in the Bible. But it was more than just that phrase, there is the preceding verse where we can find the idea that "whatever has been done, will be done again."While interpretations of this concept vary, I find its resonance particularly compelling when applied to cuisine, culture, and techniques. In my interpretation, it suggests that the genesis of an idea may occur just once, but it undergoes a cycle of reinvention, adaptation, or even manifesting differently due to the influence of culture, a societal change, or even mere coincidence. Then, when it comes to cuisine and beverages, it extends to the idea that techniques of making them have either evolved, changed, and all happens because it absorbed the impact of historical or cultural events, which eventually led to a process in sociology known as assimilation and amalgamation. All these, has led me questioning the use of word such as "authentic" and "original," as they imply a unique creation when, in reality, many similar ideas have existed throughout history only it was reborn through different way at a different time or culture and even society.
Proudly Tubruk, as my title suggest is my attempt to delve into a coffee technique that Indonesian hold dear as an authentic part of their way of living. However, is it really? Do similar even same technique exist elsewhere in the world? And Is it possible to elevate the image of Kopi Tubruk ? Let’s find out together!
Growing up, the coffee scene that I knew was not an espresso or variations of it. The method I grew up knowing wasn’t a french press or a v60, let alone an espresso machine. The method that I saw in my day-to-day life was Tubruk. It was a very rudimentary way of making coffee. My grandparents made it that way, my mom made it that way, and even during functions, people make coffee that way. But before we dive even deeper,
What even is Kopi Tubruk?
First Kopi means Coffee and Tubruk is a Javanese word that means collision. It remains unclear to me why the coffee is called that way. All I can deduce is that this method has deep roots in the island of Java as evident from the name. Anything else especially the precise origins and historical inception of this method remains elusive. However, what certain to me and to my knowledge is that it has been a part of the coffee culture for generations, I can trace it back from stories that was told by my grandparents on both sides and even my parents. It was like a folktale that was told generation to generations.
To prepare a Kopi Tubruk, all you need is coffee ground and hot water. People usually put one to two teaspoon of coffee ground into a glass or steel cup, then pour a hot water. If you like sweet coffee, you can add granulated sugar and mixed with the coffee ground before pouring the hot water. The serving of this coffee is also worthy to note and observed. They are not served on a fancy porcelain mug but rather regular clear glass where its bottom are more narrow.Only in recent times people are using the coffee mug instead a clear glass. Still, if you go to road side establishment, you will be served kopi tubruk in a clear glass and a saucer.
However, when discussing this technique with friends, they often mention that it is similar to "mud coffee" or "cowboy coffee”which originates from the United States. This circled back to my first introduction and because of these comparisons, I was curious enough to delved into it and reached to a conclusion that at its core, the technique involves a minimal process of mixing coffee grounds with water. Yet, there are nuances when we put them into some type of side-to-side comparison. For examples, “ What type of people who drink the coffee”, “ what type of beans that are used” even to the type of roast between these methods.
Now, this might clarify that while the core of the method are the same but Kopi Tubruk possesses distinguish characteristics that set it apart from cowboy coffee or mud coffee.
Now, what are the differences and nuances to it?
Kopi Tubruk is commonly sold in warungs, it is a road side establishment and even local eateries. The price point is often below $1 and is aligned with the settings that are often modest. This method is also preferred by the working-class and middle aged to elderly men or in Bahasa Indonesia, it’s referred as “ bapak-bapak”. I have rarely seen women in Indonesia drink Kopi Tubruk but they exist.
The coffee itself is associate with bitter and earthy flavor. Those two flavor notes should already give it away on the type of beans that are used to make this Kopi Tubruk.
Robusta is the common beans that are used to make Kopi Tubruk. It is cheaper than Arabica and as I have mentioned, the pricing point of Kopi Tubruk was also less than $1. The beans that are used to make Kopi Tubruk are often roasted in a medium to light while a very dark roast of robusta is a rare sight especially in warungs. It is also finely grinded and almost espresso-like which helped the coffee to steep faster. Considering, the demographic of this coffee drinker, it is not a surprise that Robusta was chosen. It has more caffeine content than Arabica. I find it intriguing when my friend who found themselves drinking Kopi Tubruk remarked that all coffee are bitter. Technically not all coffee are bitter, because Arabica would have a lot more profile of taste and flavors compared to Robusta that are more often than not, bitter, earthy and smokey.
In the country itself, even socially, there is this anecdotes and questions whenever I go to coffee shop but not exclusively myself this is just something I have heard a lot over here,
"Why visit a coffee shop when you can enjoy coffee at a roadside warungs at a more affordable price?"
From a caffeine perspective, Kopi Tubruk from these warungs packs a punch with its higher caffeine content, all while priced at less than $1 per cup. But these days, since people go to cafe not only because to drink coffee, it makes more sense that people are willing to spend more for the conveniences it offers. Now, the challenge would be changing the image of Kopi Tubruk and bringing them inside a trendy cafe where people can enjoy Kopi Tubruk. It has to evolve that not only “Bapak-Bapak” can drink this coffee but also youngsters. All these has to start with the cafe itself where it’s rare to find places offering Kopi Tubruk as most cafes tend to focus on espresso-based beverages and offers Arabica compared to Robusta. However now, since the third wave of coffee, coffee culture seems to be swinging and it’s a fresh air to breathe knowing that people would delve deeper into the world of coffee and especially in here, Indonesian coffee.
Now, what particularly captivates me is the role of Kopi Tubruk in Javanese culture. The coffee is more than just a beverage to drink while talking to family or friends. Kopi Tubruk is also used in various rituals. It is intertwined with mysticism and dynamism.I personally saw some of my families still practiced this, where they put Kopi Tubruk as an offerings placed at the corner of the house. It is believe that the coffee would be drunk by a spirit then by morning, it would have no taste at all. Looking at the cultural side of it, it comes as no surprise that this method of brewing coffee holds a special place in Indonesian culture and its people .Hence why it is no wonder that there is a sense of pride and a strong belief that Kopi Tubruk is an authentic product of Indonesia.
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𝘔𝘢𝘤 𝘪𝘴 𝘢 𝘴𝘦𝘭𝘧-𝘦𝘮𝘱𝘭𝘰𝘺𝘦𝘥 𝘯𝘪𝘯𝘫𝘢 & 𝘤𝘰𝘧𝘧𝘦𝘦 𝘤𝘰𝘯𝘯𝘰𝘪𝘴𝘴𝘦𝘶𝘳 . 𝘈 𝘵𝘺𝘱𝘪𝘤𝘢𝘭 𝘪𝘯𝘵𝘳𝘰𝘷𝘦𝘳𝘵 𝘪𝘯 𝘭𝘰𝘷𝘦 𝘸𝘪𝘵𝘩 𝘭𝘪𝘵𝘦𝘳𝘢𝘵𝘶𝘳𝘦, 𝘣𝘰𝘰𝘬𝘴, 𝘵𝘦𝘤𝘩𝘯𝘰𝘭𝘰𝘨𝘺 𝘢𝘯𝘥 𝘱𝘩𝘪𝘭𝘰𝘴𝘰𝘱𝘩𝘺. 𝘛𝘩𝘪𝘴 𝘪𝘴 𝘩𝘦𝘳 𝘱𝘦𝘳𝘴𝘰𝘯𝘢𝘭 𝘣𝘭𝘰𝘨, 𝘢 𝘳𝘦𝘧𝘭𝘦𝘤𝘵𝘪𝘰𝘯 𝘰𝘧 𝘩𝘦𝘳 𝘸𝘢𝘯𝘥𝘦𝘳𝘭𝘶𝘴𝘵 𝘢𝘯𝘥 𝘵𝘩𝘪𝘳𝘴𝘵 𝘧𝘰𝘳 𝘬𝘯𝘰𝘸𝘭𝘦𝘥𝘨𝘦. 𝘚𝘩𝘦 𝘰𝘧𝘵𝘦𝘯 𝘤𝘰𝘷𝘦𝘳𝘴 𝘣𝘰𝘰𝘬𝘴, 𝘮𝘰𝘷𝘪𝘦 𝘢𝘯𝘥 𝘴𝘦𝘳𝘪𝘦𝘴 𝘳𝘦𝘷𝘪𝘦𝘸𝘴, 𝘵𝘦𝘤𝘩 𝘳𝘦𝘷𝘪𝘦𝘸𝘴 𝘢𝘯𝘥 𝘵𝘳𝘦𝘯𝘥𝘴, 𝘱𝘩𝘰𝘵𝘰𝘨𝘳𝘢𝘱𝘩𝘺, 𝘢𝘯𝘥 𝘱𝘦𝘳𝘴𝘰𝘯𝘢𝘭 𝘥𝘦𝘷𝘦𝘭𝘰𝘱𝘮𝘦𝘯𝘵. 𝘖𝘯𝘤𝘦 𝘪𝘯 𝘢 𝘣𝘭𝘶𝘦 𝘮𝘰𝘰𝘯, 𝘺𝘰𝘶 𝘤𝘢𝘯 𝘧𝘪𝘯𝘥 𝘩𝘦𝘳 𝘵𝘳𝘢𝘷𝘦𝘭𝘪𝘯𝘨, 𝘪𝘮𝘮𝘦𝘳𝘴𝘪𝘯𝘨 𝘩𝘦𝘳𝘴𝘦𝘭𝘧 𝘪𝘯 𝘭𝘰𝘤𝘢𝘭 𝘤𝘶𝘭𝘵𝘶𝘳𝘦𝘴 𝘢𝘯𝘥 𝘵𝘳𝘢𝘥𝘪𝘵𝘪𝘰𝘯𝘴, 𝘢𝘯𝘥 𝘵𝘢𝘬𝘪𝘯𝘨 𝘱𝘪𝘤𝘵𝘶𝘳𝘦𝘴 𝘰𝘧 𝘵𝘩𝘦 𝘣𝘦𝘢𝘶𝘵𝘪𝘧𝘶𝘭 𝘴𝘪𝘨𝘩𝘵𝘴 𝘴𝘩𝘦 𝘦𝘯𝘤𝘰𝘶𝘯𝘵𝘦𝘳𝘴 𝘢𝘭𝘰𝘯𝘨 𝘵𝘩𝘦 𝘸𝘢𝘺. 𝘚𝘩𝘦'𝘴 𝘢𝘯 𝘰𝘤𝘤𝘢𝘴𝘪𝘰𝘯𝘢𝘭 𝘧𝘰𝘰𝘥𝘪𝘦 𝘢𝘯𝘥 𝘭𝘰𝘷𝘦𝘴 𝘵𝘰 𝘦𝘹𝘱𝘭𝘰𝘳𝘦 𝘯𝘦𝘸 𝘢𝘯𝘥 𝘥𝘦𝘭𝘪𝘤𝘪𝘰𝘶𝘴 𝘤𝘶𝘭𝘪𝘯𝘢𝘳𝘺 𝘦𝘹𝘱𝘦𝘳𝘪𝘦𝘯𝘤𝘦𝘴. 𝘍𝘰𝘭𝘭𝘰𝘸 𝘢𝘭𝘰𝘯𝘨 𝘰𝘯 𝘩𝘦𝘳 𝘢𝘥𝘷𝘦𝘯𝘵𝘶𝘳𝘦𝘴 𝘢𝘯𝘥 𝘫𝘰𝘪𝘯 𝘵𝘩𝘦 𝘤𝘰𝘯𝘷𝘦𝘳𝘴𝘢𝘵𝘪𝘰𝘯! 𝘋𝘰𝘯'𝘵 𝘩𝘦𝘴𝘪𝘵𝘢𝘵𝘦 𝘵𝘰 𝘶𝘱𝘷𝘰𝘵𝘦, 𝘭𝘦𝘢𝘷𝘦 𝘢 𝘤𝘰𝘮𝘮𝘦𝘯𝘵 𝘰𝘳 𝘢 𝘧𝘦𝘦𝘥𝘣𝘢𝘤𝘬. 𝘈 𝘳𝘦-𝘣𝘭𝘰𝘨 𝘪𝘴 𝘢𝘭𝘴𝘰 𝘢𝘱𝘱𝘳𝘦𝘤𝘪𝘢𝘵𝘦𝘥 𝘵𝘰𝘰. |