I have two homes: Kyiv, the capital of Ukraine, where I was born and spent the first half of my life, and Tbilisi, the capital of Georgia, where I’ve been living for the past 12 years. In both of my “home cities,” I have a little tradition. Once a while, I leave my routine and enjoy "as-if-tourist walk." I explore the city centers without a specific plan, as if it's my first time there. I am trying to be lost in magnificent streets of my ‘homes’. These walks are always full of surprises, and recharge me as much as a trip to a new country.
This week, I spontaneously decided to take my “as-if-tourist walk” when I found myself in Old Tbilisi two hours before a scheduled meeting.
The Heart of Old Tbilisi – Meidani Square
I begin my walk at the heart of Old Tbilisi: Meidani Square, which looks almost the same as it did in the 19th century. I admire the old architecture—charming brick houses with colorful, handmade wooden balconies. I can’t help but think that if I were an architect back then, I would have loved to invent these balconies. They are timeless! And if I couldn't invent them, at the very least, I’d want a house with one today. :)
Meidani used to be a bustling trade center in the Middle Ages, where people of all ages and backgrounds gathered. While it's no longer a trading hub, the spirit of diversity—of cultures, traditions, and tastes—still is in the air. Things are measured in centuries here and it feels like history.
My favorite view of Meidani is from the old bridge in front of it. From there, I can see a panoramic view of Old Tbilisi, including the Narikala Fortress on top of the hill. I admire the moment when the modern cable car slowly carries tourists to the ancient fortress walls, it is so unimaginable and the real at the same time.
Tbilisi Is All About Contrasts
As I continue walking, I look at the buildings, bridges, and people around me. The more I walk, the more I realize that what makes Tbilisi so unique is its eclectic nature—its blend of ancient and modern, simple and sophisticated, colorful and muted.
I pass through Europe Square, where the EU and Georgian flags wave proudly in front of the ancient city walls and Metekhi Church.
I find myself in Rike Park, a modern spot from where the famous cable car climbs to the fortress. From here, you can even take a hot air balloon ride and enjoy a panoramic view of the city from 150 meters up.
I continue walking across the Rike park, and the road leads me to another bridge—the modern and gleaming Peace Bridge. When it was built around 15 years ago, locals didn’t like it, feeling it "interfered" with the historic part of the city. But, much like the Millennium Bridge in London or the Eiffel Tower in Paris, the Peace Bridge soon became one of Tbilisi’s most photographed and iconic landmarks.
Puppets for Adults Only
After crossing the Peace Bridge, I turn right and head to another beautiful street with a special atmosphere and a distinct Georgian spirit.
This street features some of the most beautiful Georgian balconies, wonderful restaurants with summer terraces, old churches, colorful souvenirs, and even pomegranate trees in unexpected places.
The street ends at another famous spot: the Gabriadze Theater, with its unique leaning clock tower.
I pause for a moment to admire the building, and I think to myself that visiting the theater would be a great idea. I’ll plan it later this month.
The Gabriadze Theater is a puppet theater for adults, and its performances are deeply touching. I’ve been there only couple of times during my years in Tbilisi, but every performance left a lasting impression and helped me better understand the Georgian spirit.
I continue walking towards Freedom Square, the main site for major events in the country and the location of my upcoming business meeting.
Here my “as-if-tourist” walk comes to an end.
What makes us real tourists?
After wrapping up my work for the day in city center, I still felt like a tourist a bit, so I decided to finish the day with one more very “touristy” activity: buying local treats. Soon I found the right shop where I picked up some traditional Georgian sweets called “churchkhela” (it’s a bit hard to pronounce, I know!), made from grape juice, flour, and nuts. Churchkhela is sometimes called ‘Georgian version of a Snickers bar’ due to its sweetness and high nutritional value—much easier to remember!
With that, I officially declare myself a REAL tourist in my second home city, and, you know what? It tastes great! :)
Thanks a lot for reading!
I wonder whether you have ever tried being a tourist in your own city? How did it feel? Leave a comment if you would like to explore more of sunny Tbilisi with me!
P.S. The photos, the text and the walking thoughts are genuinely mine