Krakow nativity scene is the essence of my city. It has brightened every winter as long as I can remember.
According to tradition, the decorations in the nativity scene are made most of colored aluminum foil and paper. As a child, I was convinced that these were silver wrappers from chocolates and candies. I imagined how many sweets one must eat to make such a big christmass crib! I grew up in a time when the shelves in the stores were often tragically empty. I remember food stamps. That's why the glittering, fairy-tale-like openwork constructions seemed to be a portal to another world.
Christmas cribs are a tradition shared by the entire Christian world, but the Krakow version is a worldwide phenomenon. That's why the Kraków nativity scenes tradition is on the UNESCO Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity.
What makes it so unique?
The tradition was born in the 19th century. In those days, cribs were made by craftsmen who lived in nearby villages and towns and sought extra money during the winter season. They sold the smaller ones as Christmas decorations. They also created large constructions, which acted as mobile puppet theaters for playing nativity scenes. By the end of the 19th century, groups of specialized crib makers had already emerged. At that time, local nativity scene had already acquired distinctive features. It is a slender, multi-level, richly decorated structure referring to the historic architecture of Krakow. In the central part of the structure is the scene of the birth of Jesus, but it is only a small part of the whole arrangement. In addition to numerous architectural elements, you will find municipal, patriotic, and religious symbols, plenty of characters, and scenes from legends and historical events. References to current events are also frequent. Each nativity scene encapsulates the history of my country and city. And all this is presented in an intricate, shimmering colorful form from which it's hard to take eyes off.
After Poland regained its independence in 1918, the Cracovian nativity scene became a popular souvenir, but its ceremonial functions began to die out. The first Cracovian nativity scene contest was held in 1937 to keep the tradition alive. This custom is still being practiced today - with a break in 1939-44 due to the Nazi occupation.
Every year the ritual is the same. On the first Thursday of December, crib makers bring their creations to the Adam Mickiewicz Monument on the Main Market Square, where spectators can admire them for two hours. It's hard to find a good observation spot in a big crowd - about 150 cribs take part in the contest every year.
Yesterday, first time in my life, I watched the inauguration of 80th Jubilee Competition of Krakow Nativity Scene.
Nativity scenes at the Mickiewicz Monument.
I love "reading" nativity scenes - recognizing architectural elements and characters.
Take this nativity scene below, for example. The tallest tower refers to St. Mary's Basilica, and the other two remind me of the bell tower at Wawel Castle. In addition, we see the Krakow and Poland emblems and two flags - Polish and Marian. In the center is a Bethlehem scene topped with a dome, which looks similar to the Sigismund Chapel on Wawel Castle. In the lower part, we see figures associated with history and legends - on the left, Jews, who made up a large part of society before World War II, and on the right, highlanders playing the violin. Between them are "Krakowianka" (girl in the traditional Cracovian folk costume) and Lajkonik - the legendary Tartar horseman, a crucial part of Krakow's folklore.
Here you can see all the figures a little better:
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As you can see, the works are of different sizes and quality. That's because the competition includes both experienced craftsmen and amateurs - multi-generational families and even kindergarten children!
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Here we have a child's nativity scene. Wawel Dragon lives here (the green one), another character from Krakow legend 🙂
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Take a look at the details!
There are always a few standouts among the works. This year I spotted oriental nativity scene:
And one was knitted!
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I've said that Krakow nativity scenes could sometimes be a unique commentary on current events. This year, some of them had a third flag - in blue and yellow.
There have appeared not only flags - look at this beauty.
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I was most moved by this small, somewhat lopsided nativity scene, probably made by children or teenagers. The scene is poignant in its simplicity - dozens of refugee figures with tiny suitcases, all in blue and yellow.
That's why I love Krakow's nativity scenes. If all historical sources disappeared, scholars could read history from them.
Many of the works are highlighted from the inside - it's worth seeing them again at the post-competition exhibition.
At noon, the authors carefully took their works from under the monument to move in the traditional procession around the Main Market Square.
The procession passed by the 12th-century St. Adalbert's Church and headed toward the stage on the other side of the Cloth Hall.
The event was attended by a lot of children - both as spectators and participants in the competition.
Each author had the opportunity to get on stage and present their work. It took a long time, but everyone was in a good mood and waited patiently.
I was very touched when the children proudly and joyfully presented their works. The tradition of creating nativity scenes is still alive 💚
There were plenty of family nativity scenes made by grandparents, parents, and grandchildren.
After the presentation, the nativity scenes were taken to the museum in the Krzysztofory Palace in the Main Market Square. The verdict will be announced on December 4. From December 5 to February 27, the prettiest works of this edition will be on display at a post-competition exhibition. In addition, as every year, dozens of nativity scenes from previous editions will be exhibited in various locations - in showcases and display windows. In prior years, such outdoor exhibitions made my winter walks more pleasant.
Absorbed by excitement, I didn't notice that I was frozen to the bone. So although I had a great desire to stroll around the Christmas market, I ran home.
I will return to the Market Square before Christmas to enjoy the old Polish atmosphere 💚
