Some time ago, I took you for a walk around the New Jewish Cemetery (opened in 1800) at Miodowa Street.
I mentioned then that I would also like to see the Old Jewish Cemetery next to the Remuh Synagogue. We can find it on Szeroka St, in the heart of Kazimierz, the Jewish district of Krakow. It was closed for a few months due to lockdown, and I only visited it in the fall.
Established in 1535, it is one of the oldest Jewish cemeteries in Europe; the oldest preserved tombstone dates back to 1552. The house of worship known today as the Remuh Synagogue was built about the same time. Together, they form a unique complex of Jewish architecture and sacred art.
In 1800, the cemetery was closed, like many other old necropolises in Krakow located in the center of the city.
During WW II, there was a rubbish dump in the cemetery, only a few matzevas survived. At the end of the 1950s, efforts were made to recover the tombstones and renovate the cemetery. What we can see today is the result of these efforts.
Szeroka St - entrance to the synagogue and cemetery.
By the wall of the cemetery, there is a sculpture - bench dedicated to the Polish activist and diplomat Jan Karski, who was active in the Polish Underground State during WWII. On the commemorative plaque, we can read about him: A man who tried to stop the holocaust of Polish Jews. That's right. Karski was, among other things, the author of several reports on the situation of Jews in occupied Poland. He entered the Warsaw ghetto and the transit Nazi camp disguised as the Ukrainian guard of SS formation to gather reliable information. After getting West, he led a constant crusade, making the Allies aware of the extent of the genocide committed in the occupied territories. It is regrettable that although he reached the most important politicians (he met with Roosevelt, among others) and other personalities with his report, he was met with disbelief and disregard - like few other witnesses who tried to open the eyes of the Allies. After WWII he has been awarded many times for his activities (incuding The American Medal of Freedom and the title of Righteous Among the Nations, awarded by Yad Vashem.)
Jan Karski - a good man of bad times.
After passing the gate, we reach a small courtyard to enter the synagogue and the cemetery. There is a small entrance fee (~ $ 2.5).
Entrance to the synagogue.
The synagogue is small. It was transformed from a private house (owned by a Jewish merchant and royal banker) into a place of prayer. Initially, it was intended only for immediate family and friends. Despite the later reconstructions, it didn't manage to enlarge significantly, and today even a small group of tourists fills it to the brim.
I had to wait a bit, and I managed to come in between two groups of visitors, and I had a few minutes of solitude.
It was my first visit to a synagogue, so everything was new. There are currently seven synagogues in Krakow, but only in Remuh are regular services held.
The benches can seat up to 20-30 people.
After a while, another trip came, and I barely made it through the narrow door.
I entered the cemetery from the yard; I was completely alone here.
I like wandering around old necropolises. I can feel the passage of time here. On the one hand, it can be depressing; on the other hand, it allows you to look at many things from a distance.
Behind the cemetery wall you can see the Jakub St; and the tenements of Kazimierz.
It was a warm October day, but I felt cold in the shade in the corner of the cemetery. The contrast in temperatures was huge.
Wild strawberries grew here and there :)
Considering how much this place was demolished during WWII, it looks good today. Despite efforts, there are many more disordered spaces at the new cemetery at Miodowa St. It is larger than the Remuh Cemetery and more challenging to restore completely.
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I'm the only author of the text and photos.
