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In my last post I started a tour of the Visaya region in the south of the #philippines, the inspiration behind this was that often I am asked where is best to visit, what is there to do there?
Continuing on the large island of Cebu today I will take you north to a small exotic island but first along the way let me show you some highlights that are worth considering on your travels.
Leaving behind the diving town of Moalboal on the west coast lets zip across to the east, a little south from the town of Oslob is a sleepy village called Tan-Awan. Once only known for being a fishing port it has now become famous for one of the most popular tourist activities on the island, hey maybe even the whole of the Philippines. Whale shark watching!
Wow just Wow!!!!
Now this activity has divided opinion, many feel it is not natural and should be stopped, I'll try and give you all sides of the story and you can make up your own mind.
So, a bit of history behind this, Tan-Awan was struggling as a fishing village and many were finding it hard to make a living. One fisherman thought that the whale sharks which had been in the area for decades could be a new source of income.
Until this idea was acted on the fishermen considered the sharks a pest as they would break their fishing nets and scare off the fish. In some cases locals were also known to hunt the whale sharks despite their protected status.
Good business?
Initially the locals would take out the occasional passing tourist to supplement their income. Before long word got out and people started to come from far and wide to see the spectacle.
By 2011 the local government stepped in to deal with the hoards of visitors coming to the town, often up to 800 people a day would show up and things were getting out of control.
Now there is a fully organized visitors center and a limit on the number of visitors in the water although it is still in the many hundreds a day. The income made is massive and the local village has been saved from financial collapse, with easy money to be made most of what were previously fishermen have become guides.
The biggest downside is that the sharks themselves have become entrapped in the area (metaphorically speaking) drawn in by the daily free food on offer, who wouldn't stick around for the freebies. This though has stopped them living in their normal way and many no longer migrate around the islands in deeper water .
Not a very natural encounter.
This is how this activity takes place large numbers of swimmers and boats enter the shallow waters and the sharks are fed copious amounts of shrimp to draw them in close for photo opportunities.
It's a bit of a circus and often the whale sharks hit into the boats or poor snorkelers kick them with their fins, or worse hold onto them which is a big no no.
To sum up, for me this is not how we should have our wild encounters, it is more akin to visiting Seaworld and although you will get to see these stunning beasts you will come away feeling underwhelmed. Nothing comes close to that natural unexpected encounter while diving or snorkeling and if you spend enough time in the water it will eventually happen.
That said I fully understand why folk on a short vacation would jump at the chance to see these guys, the jury is out for me I get both sides of the story and it's difficult to say who's right and wrong.
Want to know more read this article. https://www.nationalgeographic.com/animals/2018/08/whale-sharks-tourism-philippines-benefit-harm-news/
OK, so that's the Oslob area covered time to move a little further north and the next place I would like to show you is the town of Alcoy. Just under a hours drive from Cebu city this town has recently landed on the map for tourists.
Alcoy, on the way up.
With it's stunning beaches and great diving it is probably one of the most accessible destinations for those wanting a chilled out beach based holiday. With local ferries going to Bohol it is also a great place to jump off from if you are up for a longer stay taking in different locations.
It's not a big town and if you are hoping for heady nightlife this is not the place for you but if you just enjoy relaxation and good food this could be just the place for you.
Although not as established as many other tourist areas, there are already a number of quality places to stay from backpacker lodges, Eco resorts and a few high end hotels, so there is something to suit everyone's budget.
In recent times I have heard folk mention this place more and more, giving me the feeling it is going to grow quickly, hopefully not too much as we need these small destinations, as I for one like the small town feel of the place and too much development would spoil the vibe.
Now it's time to head to the very north of Cebu and across to the island paradise of Malapascua, I will by pass Cebu city for now and cover that in a later post. If traveling north from Cebu city, you can easily reach the small island of Malapascua in a day but if you fancy something a bit out of the ordinary I have a place you could spend a night or two at prior to taking the short crossing to the island.
Skips beach resort is only 20 minutes from the port at Maya where you would make the crossing, a small family run hotel with various room prices and for the more adventurous there is a free camping area. Also they have kayaks, fishing gear and snorkeling equipment all available free of charge. They also have a in house restaurant serving a delicious menu all day long.
Skip's, a quiet retreat.
A friendly bunch who really understand hospitality and don't seem to be looking to screw every last peso out of you which is quite refreshing. Thanks to https://www.skipsbeachresort.com/ for the images.
What makes this place out of the ordinary is the owner, Skip Ellsworth is a American with a very interesting history, a self made man who lived a extraordinary life. He along with Jessie Glover were the first ever foreign students of the Kung Fu and movie legend Bruce Lee.
He has a room at his house dedicated to his time training under Lee, it contains genuine items such as Bruce Lee's training tunic and various memento's of their time together. In the picture below you can see in the back row from left to right Jessie Glover, Bruce Lee and Skip Ellsworth, now how cool is that.
Kung Fu Legend.
Right then you've either had a couple of days rest at Skips place or you have come straight from the city and looking to get across to Malapascau. Ferries from Maya port run only in daylight hours so if you miss the last one you will have to charter a private boat for the short crossing, check the schedule's to avoid disappointment.
Paradise.
When you reach the island you will find what most describe as a island paradise, beautiful white beaches lined with palm trees and a great mix of places to stay. It is best to book before you arrive as the island can get quite busy because it is the best place on the planet to go diving with the famous Thresher sharks.
On the south of the island you will find bounty beach, this is home to most of the dive operators and lots of cool beach bars. We stayed with Evolution a professional dive shop with native bungalow accommodation and a bistro bar serving good food and hosting regular BBQ nights.
Evolution divers.
If you are planning to dive the Thresher sharks be prepared for a early start as the dive site is a hours cruise from the beach and the dive starts at sunrise, on your way out the excitement builds.
Good morning sunshine.
Entering the dive site at Monad shoal you drop down to a submerged pinnacle that is 30 metres deep, the main viewing area feels a bit like a underwater cinema but the experience is out of this world. Words can't really explain what it's like so here's a short video that gives you a look at these amazing creatures.
Monad Shoal Malapascau.
Truly a special once in a life time moment.
Aside from the Threshers there is some other great diving to be had. The Night dive at the lighthouse is a good spot to see the super cute Mandarin fish. They hide away during the day appearing at night to feed and look for a mating partner, these guys are one of the most colourful fish you will ever see.
Looking for some love action.
Before we left Malapascau we planed a day trip to the tiny Gato island, this small lush green island jutting out of the open ocean is another dive site, people are not allowed on the island itself.
Gato island ahoy.
Our first dive started at the south of the site where we entered a cave which through centuries of erosion has now become a tunnel going right through the island. Dark and spooky but at the same time full of beautiful corals it was a really cool dive
Back into the light.
On the second dive we spotted a few sharks which always makes me happy. These apex predators are dwindling in numbers and sadly sightings are becoming less frequent.
White tip reef shark.
Back to the resort and end of our trip.
What a great way to round out our stay here, the island is small but a huge amount of fun was had by the wife and I, i'm sure you all would enjoy it, even if you don't dive, the only question is why you don't dive? you are missing out on life, so while at any of the places I mention in these posts consider taking a dive course, trust me it will be one of the greatest things you do.
In the morning we cross back to the mainland and head to the hustle and bustle of Cebu city on route to Bohol, expect more diving, city chaos, ferries and Monkeys. Until then stay safe folks!
If you missed my last post here's a link;
(https://hive.blog/hive-163772/@biggypauls/traveling-in-the-philippines-where-to-go-what-to-do)
[//]:# (!pinmapple 11.329041 lat 124.121582 long Malapascau island d3scr)