In December of 2018, I went to Siargao. The trip was quick, I was alone, I stayed at one hostel, did an island-hoping tour, but I didn’t party and didn’t get to surf. I didn’t do a lot, to be honest, but I remember liking the vibes of Siargao. It was one of those places I’ve always wanted to return to. So when I got the chance to come back, I had every plan to travel differently. This time, I would party, surf, and try my best to make lots of friends. What I didn’t plan on is what I would do amid a typhoon.
December 15, 2021
I went to NAIA terminal 2 and flew to Siargao at 1:00 p.m. We reached the island at around 3:00 p.m., a shuttle van was waiting for me outside. The driver took me to Lampara Siargao, it was raining, and save for this one lad who was standing in the lobby, the place looked abandoned. I texted the contact person who then called me to say that they've evacuated all of their guests to Tropical Temple resort because of the weather. Lampara is on the beachside area of General Luna, and the beach is the last place where you want to be in the midst of a typhoon.
The driver took me to the Tropical Temple where I was given a lower-bunk bed in the dorm room. There were two other guests in the room named, Jade and Ella, college girls in their early 20s who were traveling together. They talk to me with “po,” the word that we, Filipinos, use to convey respect to strangers and our elders.
Around 6:00 p.m. I went out trying to find a place to eat but the restaurants have closed down already, also in anticipation of the typhoon. Disappointed, I walked back to the resort and slept on an empty stomach.
Dec 16, 2021
11:00 a.m.
I was stuck in the hostel room not knowing what to do. The power was out, the wind was howling, and a small flood had started to form in the lobby from the heavy rains. I couldn’t message anyone as there was no WiFi and the network signal was poor. There was no water running either, which magnified the stress that I'd been feeling tenfold as I was on my first day of period.
On top of all this, I was hungry. I heard the other guests ordering food from one of the staff who was arranging food delivery for everyone. Restaurants were closed and the hotel doesn’t have an in-house cafe. Being vegan in the middle of the storm is no fun; I didn’t know where to get food.
I just asked for pancit canton and I know it’s not vegan but I didn't care anymore. As long as there’s no meat I can eat it.
It’s a good thing that I brought my laptop so I can write. I made sure to charge my laptop yesterday in anticipation of the power outage. Both my phone and my watch were low in batteries, I prayed that the power would return soon.
2:25 p.m.
Waiting for the storm to pass was beginning to get to me. I’d been sitting on my bed, powerless to do anything. There was no WiFi so I couldn’t use the net, there was no mobile signal so I couldn't message my friends, there was no water so I couldn't even use the restroom. I forgot my kindle and I didn’t have any book with me so I couldn’t even read. Adding to my misery were my menstrual cramps.
I plugged my phone into my laptop to charge it. I had no idea when the electricity would come back. The storm was still ransacking the hell out of the town. I couldn't do anything but wait and wonder when will it end.
A small flood had seeped into our room and the rainwater was leaking through the light fixtures on the ceiling. My fellow guests tried their best to push the flood into the drainage inside the restroom.
8:51 p.m.
The dorm room was now filled with people because the guests who were staying at the private villas had been moved to our room. The electricity was still out and the nonstop chatters of the other guests had been going on for hours, it was like I could hear them talking inside my head. We couldn’t close the door to allow some light and ventilation, thus I had to deal with all the noise.
I know I should have tried to make friends but I just didn’t have the energy for it. My period was making things extra uncomfortable for me. I didn’t want to move, didn’t want to drink a lot so I don’t have to pee because there was no water in the loo.
When everyone gathered around to eat, I just stayed on my bed feeling miserable because they were having chicken that I obviously couldn't eat. As I thought about sleeping it off again, one of the staff entered and asked me if I wanted a cup of noodles.
She already knew that I don't eat meat early that day, but I didn't expect that she would remember me, much more my food preference given how many the guests were (we were probably about 30 people there) at that time. She even prepared the cup noodles for me. Because I was feeling emotional and stressed, I got teary-eyed by the good gesture.
I had a hard time getting some sleep that night due to all the noise the other guests were making. I realized that in situations like this, there are two kinds of people: one who tries to see the bright side and the one who can't seem to find the light. In this instance, I was the latter.
Dec 17, 2021
The situation was a lot worse than I’d imagined. When I woke the next day, the first thing I did was check out the lobby. To say that it was horrible would be an understatement. Shattered glasses were all over the floors, the pots that held the plants, even the large ones had been broken. When I looked outside the resort, I was horrified to see that the lush coconut trees had noticeably reduced in number, many of which had been cut down by the strong wind.
The thriving island life that had drawn many to this province had vanished overnight. I didn’t know what to do, everything was ruined. It dawned on me that the dream vacation that I had been looking forward to all these months, was no more.
The male guests had worked together to open the concrete slab that covers the well. Suddenly, we had water to use for bathing and washing. Yesterday, we had no choice but to use rainwater, so dark it looked like a carabao had bathed in it, for flushing toilets as well as for simple washing. I filled up three pails with water and went to the bathroom for that much-needed shower. It was one of the best feelings ever and eased up my anxiety a little bit.
9:18 a.m.
After I’d dressed up I had set on the mission to find Palaka Resort, the second accommodation that I booked for this trip. I heard all resorts, establishments, and even houses had been greatly devastated by the typhoon but I wanted to see if Palaka Resort fared better than Tropical Temple.
Since no tricycles and motorbikes can be hired to take me there due to the poor road conditions, I had to do it on foot. It felt a lot like joining the Survivor; I had to walk over fallen trees that were blocking the roads, skip over or duck under electric cables from toppled electric posts, step on broken glasses and muddy trails, and go through the web of tree branches and trunks like I was entering a jungle.
I saw residents and business owners outside their ruined properties, trying to clean up and pick up whatever they could salvage. The depressing sight felt heavy on my heart. What happened to Siargao? How could it all be ruined after just one night?
After walking under the sun for almost 2 hours and getting lost a few times, I finally found the resort. The first thing that greeted me are fallen palm trees blocking the way.
I met other guests who were then preparing to have lunch. They said that none of the resort staff was there at the moment as they had to leave to check their houses.
So that's how I met these two couples, Louie and Audrey and Mark and Alaiza (Laiza). I told them that I left my luggage at Tropical Temple and Laiza volunteered her husband to help me come get them using the scooter that they rented.
So Mark and I began the perilous, I mean the challenging journey of going back to my resort to get my stuff. Mark then realized how long I had walked and couldn’t believe that I did it. I could hardly believe it myself but I guess, that's how desperation works.
Back to Palaka Resort, Louie and Audrey took it upon themselves to assign me the one remaining available room since the staff was not around to accommodate me. The room is huge, with a king-size bed, side tables, and a huge side wall mirror. The bathroom is beautiful, especially the shower area. I couldn’t help but feel disappointed that I wasn’t able to enjoy it when there was still power and water.
There was a small pool of water on the ground so I picked up a mop and started cleaning the floor so I wouldn’t accidentally slip on it and give myself more problems than I already have.
I had a hard time sleeping that night even when the bed was comfy. I was burdened with thoughts of going home. I wasn't supposed to go home until the 24th but given the situation, there was no point in prolonging my stay. It's better for me, and the rest of the tourists to leave the island as soon as possible so the locals can focus on rebuilding their homes and livelihoods. The Siarganon people are really kind and hospitable, they were taking care of us even when they have more pressing things to worry about. Given what happened, I felt guilty that we were taking away the time they should be spending at home to deal with the problems that Odette left behind.
Dec 18, 2021
We set out a plan to leave Siargao and get back home. Louie and Audrey talked to some people they know while Mark, Laiza, and I tried to find the LGU office to obtain some information. Unfortunately, the LGU building was closed so we just asked some locals for information. It’s hard when you want to get updates but have no way of getting them. It was like we were back in the early 90s when mobile phones and Internet weren't widely yet and communication was difficult.
We heard from some locals that people have been going to Dapa port to ride the RORO. To check the situation, Louie and Mark drove there with their rented scooters while we girls stayed behind and cooked the food.
The other group that they met during the storm seemed to be taking the situation a lot better than us. We even saw them buying groceries from the market and they had plans to go surfing that day. I honestly couldn't imagine going for a surf when everything around us had been destroyed. But then again, I was completely stressed and I traveled there alone. They, on the other hand, went there as a group and can rely on each other for moral support so I can see how they're able to handle it better than me.
I just wish the government would be more hands-on and efficient in dealing with dire situations such as this. I don’t even know what they’re doing. The roads were still blocked with fallen electric posts and trees. People are now in survival mode, many are getting desperate for food that they’re starting to loot business establishments.
The Philippines is plagued with storms and typhoons every year yet each time, the story repeats itself. People lose their homes, die, or get injured, and the government is always slow to respond.
Mark and Louie returned around noon with some food to cook. They said that the port was filled with people trying to ride the RORO and that everything was chaotic. We wanted to go to the airport but we heard that it has been destroyed by Odette as well so all flights were canceled.
Our only option really is to go to Dapa port and do what the locals call pakyawan. It means they would fill a boat with passengers to take them to Surigao City. Note that there was no guarantee we would succeed with this plan, but we proceeded anyway as it's better than to wait for nothing.
We asked Mang Ernie, the security guard of Palaka Resort to help us get a van that would take us to Dapa port. He managed to find one and said that the driver was asking 500 pesos per head.
I was so excited to leave that my bags were packed in no time. We first hired motorbikes to the meeting place where the van was waiting for us. We then transferred into the van and traveled for an hour to Dapa port. When we got there, the port was empty, no sign of tourists that Mark and Louie reported having seen earlier. According to the local man that we talked to, the Coast Guard didn’t allow the use of RORO to transport the stranded tourists so they were told to leave. Where they went, we had no idea.
Suddenly, we didn’t know what to do. None of us wanted to return to General Luna; yes we had good beds to sleep on at Palaka Resort but going back takes us back to square one. At least if we stay at Dapa, we’re a step closer to going home.
The only solution is to find somewhere we could spend the night over. We drove around for a bit looking for a place with Louie and Mark taking the initiative to talk to some people. The first few places that they approached, couldn’t take us in. The last place that we went to, after some begging, agreed to let us stay and they didn't even ask us to pay.
The place is called D’Islanders Ville Pension. I feel so grateful to its manager, a woman whose name I wasn't able to ask, for accommodating us. She provided us with a room, allowed us to charge our devices, and even let us collect water so we could take a bath. She is amazing and kind and I hope I could repay her kindness in some way.
Dec 19, 2021
With only a few hours of sleep, we left the pension house at 1:49 a.m. to go to the port. The moon was bright and the streets are dark and empty. We towed our luggage and carried our bags to the port, unsure if we would be able to ride on a boat to leave the island.
We were standing for almost an hour when a man approached us and offered to take us as passengers on his pump boat. He said that they could carry 40 people and that the fare rate is 500 per head.
We didn't waste the opportunity and immediately followed him to the docking area where we found two boats, one of which was already filled with passengers.
They filled that boat to its full capacity with no leg room left for everyone. The boat ride took 2 hours but it felt a lot longer than that. I was so sleepy so I rested my head on the motorbike that they loaded on the boat and placed right in front of me.
The moment we disembarked the boat, it felt like a weight has been lifted off my chest. I didn't realize just how hard I'd been taking things until I stepped on that pier.
From there we hired a van and traveled for another 4 hours to Butuan City. We rebooked our flight so we could go home that day. I paid P10,000 more to get that one remaining seat in business class. It was either this or I'd stay two more days before I could fly back home. There was no way I would be staying back there, I wanted to go home asap and I would do anything to make that happen on that day.
5:45 p.m.
Finally, I was back in Manila. I was completely spent but happy and relieved to be back home.
Final thoughts
Unlike my newfound friends who were able to enjoy touristy stuff in Siargao, I wasn't able to do anything other than experience the typhoon. Until now, I'm not sure what to feel about it. Tough times make for good stories and as a writer, this is a good thing for me. However, experiencing it is a whole different matter. Let's just say that I wouldn't wish for anyone to go through it, not even to an enemy. Although I had been lucky to get out alive, remembering it still feels heavy in my heart.
The psychological impact of it is unlike anything I've had before. Never have I felt this hopeless and powerless to do anything. I wanted to help other people but I felt paralyzed by my own inability to get past my anxiety. I was worrying constantly, barely able to feed myself, and couldn't get enough sleep. I waited for hours, doing nothing, all the while feeling heartbroken seeing the magnitude of the destruction Odette had caused to Siargao.
What I experienced was nothing compared to those whose homes and businesses had been wiped out overnight. And so I kept trying to tell myself that I shouldn't be depressed, yet found myself unable to change my feelings.
And now I pray for Siargao and the rest of the provinces that had been greatly devastated by this typhoon. I don't know how my story could help or whether anyone will find some meaning in it. But I hope this helps get the message across that the people of Siargao need our help.
If you're reading this I hope you can spread the word or find it in your heart to send whatever help you can to the typhoon survivors. Below are the links to some of the organizations that are actively working to provide relief operations.