Six days ago, Havana celebrated its 505th anniversary. But what if I told you that the date is not correct?
On November 16, I decided to participate in the tradition of circling the ceiba tree three times and found myself at a conference given by the historian (and in my opinion, an excellent storyteller) Ciro Bianchi.
Today I’m talking about an uncertain foundation, historical errors, and of course, the ceiba tree located in the Templete. Let’s get started...
Uncertain Foundation
Like all settlements, the Spaniards arriving in the New World sought to have the best resources as close to the coast as possible. The case of Havana was no different.
The first Spaniards moved several times before settling near the bay; what is now Old Havana and Regla. All for the comfort and geographical and strategic safety that the Bay of Havana offered.
This would be definitive for the development of the future capital.
The mystery surrounds why November 16 is celebrated as the day of the foundation.
The truth is that the Spaniards named cities after the saint celebrated on nearby dates. Havana was called Villa de San Cristóbal.
The feast of San Cristóbal is celebrated on July 10.
In fact, the Cathedral of Havana (which we’ll talk a bit about in this post) is dedicated to this saint.
According to Ciro Bianchi, this is the most likely scenario. The Spaniards didn’t follow to much the calendar by months but by the year.
Proof of this is that there was an inscription in Latin at the Templete confirming that it was founded in 1515 and not 1519.
Other historians say that the city was indeed founded on November 16, but it was named in honor of San Cristóbal, as he is the patron saint of navigation.
And if you want to know why Havana? Let me know in the comments, and in future posts, we’ll explore the city to find answers.
Which story do you prefer? Ciro’s and the previous date, or that of other historians? I stick with Ciro.
The Templete
In the Plaza de Armas, right next to the Castillo de la Real Fuerza (which we talked about here), there is a “small” temple with a ceiba tree.
This is where the “supposedly” first mass for the foundation of the city took place.
Supposedly because it is also believed that the location isn’t exact. While historical documents record that it was to the west of the castle, the truth is that the exact distance is unknown. Only that, by order of a higher authority, a column was erected declaring it. Where the captain commands, the soldier does not.
The most important thing about the Templete isn’t the place itself, but the entire tradition surrounding it.
It is said that the Spaniards, once they felt comfortable after settling, sought a ceiba tree that appeared strong and held the first mass and town council of the city, which gave it its name.
In the Villa de San Cristóbal, it wouldn’t be any different.
Of course, the ceiba that stands today, despite its good size, is not very old. Since 1519, the ceibas have had to be replanted several times.
The ceibas have withstood attacks from French and British pirates. They have resisted the sea, cyclones, and even the country’s poor management. These ceibas have been renewed more than the environment surrounding them.
What’s certain is that the tradition involving them remains intact.
The Circling of the Ceiba
Every November 16, Cubans and foreigners gather at the Templete to circle the ceiba tree three times. (There are tourist companies that offer exclusive packages for this date.)
No more, no less: Three circles.
After the three circles (or during them), you must make a wish and return the following year.
If your wish comes true, you must thank the ceiba and can make a new one (you can never be greedy, or it won’t listen to you)
If it doesn’t come true, you’ll have to repeat the process. According to tradition, at the right moment, the ceiba will hear you.
I’m not a strong believer in this, but I do enjoy seeing how people come from far away to circle the ceiba. Some throw money, others call family members abroad, and children learn the tradition.
It’s a lovely moment (considering that in Cuba, there aren’t many traditions or celebrations that aren’t associated with the government).
This year, I arrived around noon, and there weren’t many people. Maybe because of the sun, the hour, or the sad reality the country is facing.
The Templete welcomed all visitors in its full splendor. The workers explained the history in great detail. It’s a shame that the interior of the small temple is under restoration. Inside, there are some wonderful murals.
Although I don’t believe in the outcomes of the circling, I wanted to experience the tradition like the first time my parents talked to me about it and took me to do it, so I circled the tree and made my wish. We’ll see if it comes true.
What I enjoyed most about the day was being able to relive my childhood. The first time I came with my parents, and this time, after many years, I returned with my mom and sister. I pass by this place every month, but it had been a long time since I last visited, and reliving it all delighted me.
Now it’s your turn—tell me about your city! Does it have any peculiar stories like Havana? Or just comment whatever you like; it will be a pleasure to learn about your city.
Read you soon!
[dahpilot]
All photos are mine.
