Brantôme paints an image of what happens when nature and architectural creativity merge together. This is the third part of my Dordogne River Valley Series in southwestern France where our family spent a long weekend road trip to visit different villages in the region of Dordogne.
It was a sunny Monday of May back in 2019. A leisurely stroll in the quaint neighboring village of Bourdeilles took us to Brantôme, the Venice of Périgord. It is hailed as one of the most beautiful villages in Périgord Vert or Green Perigord and is located north of Périgueux.
The most dominant and interesting monument to visit is the Abbey of Brantôme. It sits along the river banks of Dronne. Guess what, it is 1,200 years old!
The Abbey of Brantôme
It goes way back to Pre-historic times which could be seen from its troglodytic site, a naturally formed rock overhang from the cliff that runs behind the abbey which was used by pre-historic men as shelter. The Benedictine monks found refuge there and in 769, Charlemagne founded the Abbey of Brantôme.
Sometime in the 10th and 11th Centuries, the Romanesque Bell Tower was built, which is considered one of the oldest bell towers in France. Later, Gothic-style developments took place in the 15th century where vaulted ceilings were installed as you would find in the picture I took of my daughter exploring this beautiful arcade towards the church entrance.
Jardin de Moines (Garden of the Monks)
Visit the beautiful renaissance garden that was designed in the 16th century.
Commercial stalls occupied the caves
Restaurant Hunt
It was half-past twelve noon on a Monday. Most establishments were closed. We didn't enter the abbey because we were all famished. We were also worried that restaurants may stop accommodating incoming diners soon. In France, most restaurants will not offer you a seat if you arrive after 1:00-1:30 pm because lunch service usually ends at 2 pm even if the restaurant remains open till 3 in the afternoon.
Most restaurants that had interesting menus were full while empty tables had "reserved" signs. We explored every street here while looking for an ideal restaurant and while doing so, we spotted these:
"Oh, that's a cool restaurant with a view!"
The challenge was how to get there. The majority of the restaurants were situated on an island across the abbey connected by 4 bridges. There was a long walk towards the closest bridge in order to cross the river, and once we did spot the correct street to the restaurant, it was full.
There were also differences in preference and opinion between family members that made it difficult to decide while the maître d' patiently waited for our response whenever there were seats available. This indecision drove me to a state of frustration particularly when they changed their minds once we were seated outside a restaurant. The family decided to cancel because it was not shaded enough to enjoy a meal.
We continued walking as the clock ticked and one by one the restaurants started closing. I was hungry and I was gutted and no beautiful scenery could lift my spirits.
I continued to snap photos to divert my attention away from my growling stomach and disappointment every time they said, "non" after reading the menu at the entrance of each restaurant.
My Takeaway
To conclude, we ended up dining in one of France's fast-food chains, Buffalo Grill close to a commercial center not far from the main highways.
When I think about Brantôme, "hunger" is the first word that strikes me. It is an idyllic place to enjoy a relaxing getaway and an alfresco meal, especially on a gorgeous day like that bright and sunny Monday of May 2019.
I may not have enjoyed a meal overlooking the Dronne River but one would certainly leave Brantôme visually satiated.
Thank you for reading. Catch me next week for the final part of my Dordogne River Valley Series.
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