One rainy day during an organized family vacation in the Massif Central in France, we drove to a small yet picturesque medieval town named Murat.
The clouds descended on the volcanic cones that surrounded this once fortified village. Murat sat mid-mountain, at the foot of the dormant Monts du Cantal, Europe's biggest stratovolcano in the Alagnon Glacial Valley.
The drizzle repelled tourists that day. The weather painted a huge contrast to the neighboring village of Salers, yet the lure of old houses drew us in for an architectural walk. Murat is one of the many recommended sight-seeing locations in the Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes region.
Murat is referred to as the city of three rocks - The rock of Bonnevie, Bredons, and Chastel Sur Murat. It's one of the oldest towns in the Cantal department that could be traced back to 270 AD with seven sites listed in the Inventory of Historic Monuments. It was a popular trade crossroads in the Middle Ages. 3
How to Get to Murat
The best way to visit Murat is by private vehicle. It's almost 6 hours drive south of Paris if one wants to avoid the toll gates. We stayed in Le Lioran which was 15 minutes drive, while the closest city Aurillac is 50 minutes away.
Rocher de Bonnevie
The Rock of Bonnevie quietly stood above the town. Its imposing presence drew our attention as soon as we alighted the vehicle. It was once a site of a beautiful castle that was torn down and replaced by a statue of the Virgin Mary, Our Lady of Haute-Auvergne.
As one walks through the streets of the Old Town, Rocher de Bonnevie is visible, peeking through the slate-roofed buildings.
The next eye-catching architecture from the free public parking space is Maison de La Faune, one of the top things to do and see in Murat.
La Maison de la Faune
It was tricky capturing the exact 15th-century building in a photograph. La Maison de la Faune was an old hotel transformed into a natural history museum showcasing beautifully curated butterflies and fascinating insects.
Typically one would expect such an indoor activity ideal in rainy weather but no one in the family was keen on exploring a museum. However, for those who are interested, a museum visit would approximately take 1 to 2 hours. It's open from Monday to Saturday from 10 AM -12Noon/2 PM - 5 PM and Sundays from 2 PM - 5 PM.
Eglise Notre Dame des Oliviers
The church bell rang at mid-day. The sound came from the nearby 14th-Century church, Eglise Notre Dame des Oliviers. The open plan church highlights the stained glass windows and the vaulted ceilings.
The grey weather did not deter our curiosity to explore every nook and alley lined with well-preserved stone houses made of volcanic rocks and natural materials along meandering sloped streets.
We chanced upon these protected historical monuments during our stroll:
Maison du Baillage
Maison du Baillage is private property, a 15th-16th century ancient tribunal, and residence of the lieutenant of the bailiff of Haute Auvergne.
Maison Consulaire
Maison Consulaire of Murat is a 16th Century, renaissance consular house.
Le Jacquemart and the Unique Clock
One couldn't help noticing the balustrades and rustic walls of Le Jacquemart Maison de la Gaudron, typical features of the renaissance. What's special about it is its well-preserved clock.
This captivating still working musical clock pulled our eyes for several minutes. The rooster sang and flapped its wings. The clock played three songs; La Marsellaise (France's National Anthem), Ler Nien Lo Dansa, Malhuron on o uno Fenno.
At the stroke of noon, three bells chimed, while the carrousel representing the four children of Jacquemart wearing traditional Auvergne outfits danced and turned.
Another notable place as well to visit is La Halle, Murat's covered market, and enjoy the street market day every Friday.
Little pockets of greenery and gardens offered a slice of tranquility. And at every turn, there were artisan shops, cafes, and restaurants.
The boulangerie signage above enticed to follow the arrow that came with a faint aroma of freshly baked goods.
The darker the weather got, the more tempting it was to spend the rest of the afternoon eating to our hearts' content or passing the hours sitting idly in one of the chairs with a comforting cup of cafe allonge.
We, however, continued walking. If there was such a thing as breaking in new hiking boots, I chose to do it here. The occasional gaps between the medieval and renaissance houses revealed the stunning natural Cantal landscape.
Hike to Église Saint-Pierre de Bredons
If you have hours to spare, hike from the old town of Murat to Église Saint-Pierre de Bredons. According to the tourism office, there's an interesting hiking trail to the 11th-century historical monument which was a remnant of an old Benedictine Monastery. On the basalt peak, one is treated to a unique and scenic aerial view of Murat.
Doors and Windows
As we explored 15th to 16th-century greystone houses, I felt an instinctive urge to take photographs of doors and windows. I grabbed my DSLR camera while the rest of the family walked ahead. Allow me to share with you my captures.
My Takeaway
There's happiness to be found in a recluse strolling on empty streets. There's a wealth of history here, mostly concealed, enclosed by these volcanic stone walls. Murat is one of the most beautiful villages in Haute Auvergne.
One of my regrets was not being able to enjoy the breathtaking views of the city from any of the three basalt peaks that surrounded this medieval town. The remarkable slate roofs against the rolling hills of the Cantal Volcano, I daresay would be its striking feature.
Thank you for reading, the next parts of this series will take us to the Volcanic Park, detours, and burons as well as hikes around the area.
To be continued...
Related post about Auvergne that might interest you:
Part 1: Experience an Organized Family Vacation in Le Lioran, France
Part 2: Explore the Charming Village of Auvergne
I Was Scared of Heights... Until I Climbed the Summit of Puy Griou
References:
Inspired by my original post but completely re-written
2- France Voyage: Murat
3- Petites Cites de Caractere (Small Towns of Character)
4- Notre Patrimoine Horloge - Le Jacquemart
Cover image edited with Canva
"I am an old soul who simply loves coffee, who finds joy and beauty in both tangible and the unseen."
Curiosity and imagination lead to unexpected experiences. Interested in Nature, Places, Roads Less Traveled, Minimalism, Authentic Living, Anything French, and International Cuisine. Feel free to follow her, re-blog, and upvote if you enjoy her content.