South African town names are still somewhat obsessed with European town names. So many towns are named after some European town, a historical figure's name, or something along those lines. Parys, the Afrikaans translation of Paris, is most probably named after Paris in France. The most thorough study of South African town names, the Dictionary of Southern African Place Names, attests to this translation, stating that the person who named the town Parys more than a 100 years ago, fought in a war in France. Or something along those lines.
In the more artistic part of the town, you can find this small Eifel tower, which is funny because, for one, it confirms this link to Paris, France, and second, it is so small and in the Southern most tip of Africa. Place names in South Africa is a very heated political topic, so it is best to not go down this rabbit hole.
So please join me, as I virtually take you along with me to this very artistic town on the border of the Free State, a town close to the one in which I grew up. I really hope that you enjoy this visit with me.
The Vaal River
The border between the Free State and some of the other provinces, like Gauteng, is the Vaal River. I also think this is one of the main rivers feeding the Vaal dam, from which many of these towns get their water. But I remember as kids, we always went on fishing trips, either fishing in the Vaal Dam or the Vaal River. Driving here was a strange mixture of nostalgia and new memories.
The girlfriend and I drove a bit through the town (more on the conditions of the roads below, a true horror story!). We stumbled upon this old bridge which you could walk over, at least to the other side of the river. The gat was locked, so you could not physically walk over.
But the river was flowing beautifully, and we heard so many bird species calling their partners. In the photograph below, you can see all of the different bird species that call the river their home.
There are also so many wilger boom (Salix mucronata/Safsaf willow) on the banks of the river. I remember me and my brother pulling the leaves, and getting some of the long stems to hit each other! We were naughty young children. But the low-hanging stems on the edge of the river always remind me of fishing trips with my grandfather as well...
Unfortunately, the girlfriend and I did not have a lock which we could stick onto the gate amongst the other lovers...
So many lovers have probably broken their love, so many locks will rust. But the gate, along the Vaal River, is such a poetic place where me and girlfriend stole a kiss because we did not have locks.
Below, I posted a video of us driving over the Vaal River. It is really a beautiful place, even though the rest of the area has seen better days. Even though there is a lot of private money - so many beautiful shops have opened up - the rest of the town relying on public sector money sees nothing in return. The photograph below the video illustrates the conditions of the roads...
These road conditions are less than ideal for any normal car...
The Artistic Town
The small town has so many little artsy shops and antique shops. Some of them even have these cute names such as "Ietsie Mooi". No translation of this captures its unique usage in Afrikaans, but it can be translated as "Something pretty". But "ietsie" in Afrikaans is used in the case of something tangible, something you'd buy yourself, like a tablecloth, or a bouquet of flowers.
I was astounded by the amount of shops that sell old things. In Afrikaans, we say "oudhede" or old things, and there is an incredible market for these things. From old cupboards, newspapers, art, silverware, and so on.
My girlfriend could not get enough of this. She bought an incredibly beautiful old etch work for next to nothing, and she was really happy. I also saw an old leather golf bag, but I did not have the money right there to buy such expensive things at that moment. Who would have guessed old things keep their worth so long?
Not to bring politics back into the post, the photograph below the Pine's Antique one, again shows the preference for Europe, with an English flag hanging from a building inspired by the old European building style.
The Many Old Things
The leather golf bag is only the start. Once you enter these shops, they never end. Endless rows upon rows of old things that people used in the previous eras, now sitting in these stores collecting dust. Old things are only for the rich, in some sense. The price tags on some of the items are just ridiculous. But I understand it to some extend.
But also not really. These items have become art. I felt like an explorer with my camera between all the items. So many opportunities for art between art. This was a shop, selling almost everything. But I felt like I was walking through an art gallery.
A history art gallery.
Did someone wear this dress?
Did someone read the newspaper?
Did the doll have a dress on, and did it have a head previously?
These questions feel more like art gallery questions than questions you as in a shop. But from the photographs, you might hopefully get the same feelings I had. Or maybe I am just weird! But below, I will share some real art with you as well.
Resident Artist
An artistic town will not be artsy without a resident artist. Situated and nestled between many trees that cover the shops, a small art gallery hides with a resident artist living there. Many of his works were displayed, and the artist himself tells you stories of his art if you are willing to listen. I really appreciated his sculpture work, or at least, I think it was his work...
Visiting An's Artistic and Artisan Cafe for a Quick Snack
After a long walk, we were getting hungry. Early in the morning, we visited AN, a small cafe on the street corner. Earlier this week, I shared a bunch of chairs that I photographed at this little cafe. It really is a photographer's dream coffee shop!
But they boast two big pizza ovens... And we knew we were going to return to grab a pizza lunch. We had some much fun during the day, visiting a massive and beautiful bookshop, but now we had to sit down and grab a snack.
The pizza was really nice, something very unique for a small town like this. I guess the artistic type also likes their pizza fancy!
But I share some of the photographs I took of the place here as well. I really liked our visit to the cafe, and I could also feel the European influence, but this time mixed with Africanness now.
Because the town is on the older side, the stores are massive. Every single shop, even the cafe, has these elaborate mazes that you enter as you walk to the back. The cafe had many smaller shops in the back, selling wine, clothes, and yes, their fancy and strange chairs!
Finishing with a Beer
After a very long day or two, walking through the beautiful town, eating fancy food, thinking of ourselves as tourists in France, we had to end with a beer! I saw next to the old bookshop a sign for some IPAs and I knew I could not miss this opportunity.
It was just myself and my girlfriend sitting at the bar, and the bartender. We had an interesting conversation, with many strange and artsy artefacts decorating the bar. So many different drinks were put on the walls, and for such a small town it is interesting that there are so many options.
The beer tasted extra good with the many miles behind us.
From the awesome views of the river, to the strange and fascinating old oddities you can buy, to the good food and beer, we could not have asked for a better time.
Postscriptum
I hope that you enjoyed the virtual journey with me. It was a roller coaster of a ride! From nature sightings, to old bookshops, to wine and beer and art.
The small town has so much to offer. We also had some wine and beer on the edge of the river one evening! I really hope that you can visit the town when you come this side, but beware of the roads....
For now, happy and safe travels.
Keep well.
All of the writings in the post are my own, albeit inspired by this small and artsy town. All references are hyperlinked. The photographs (and video) are my own, taken with my Nikon D300 or iPhone.