There are a couple of things we can relatively be certain about. History is often brutal and violent, and that history is often told by the victors or those who are actually writing the history.
Book titles often come in the form of "Contested Histories" and so on, but this is somewhat misleading. History is written by the victors and getting to an "objectively valid" history is somewhat of a myth. Narratives always play a big role in this.
With that said, the Voortrekker Monument in Pretoria, South Africa, tells the story of the "voor trekkers". Literally translated, it can read as the "front pullers", which is sometimes a phrase used by people being funny and playing with direct translations. But it basically means the forerunners or the "first peoples" moving inland from the Cape colony in South Africa. And this is where the "contested history" problem comes in. This history and the politics surrounding it, were nicely covered by another post on the Voortrekker Monument posted in 2018 by another blogger.
Since then, the monument, or rather the surrounding buildings, has undergone severe renovations and revamps. Different from my other posts, I will begin by showcasing the main attraction, the monument itself, before I show you what you can see around the monument as well. It is literally a whole day activity as you can see so many things. As I will show at the end, you can visit one of the many "poetry/song gardens".
So please join me on this virtual journey of a monument that tells and celebrates the history of what is known as the "great trek".
From Above: A Scary View
I have a problem with heights. I cannot look over the ledge of a high building without my legs feeling like they are about to give in. This monument is 40 meters high. You walk countless steps to reach the top to look down on the monument. I could not manage to look down. I secured my camera on my arm with its straps, I pointed it in the approximate direction, and I snapped the photograph from about 40 meters above it.
From the first floor, you can better see the monument itself. Transcribed, it reads "Ons vir jou Suid Africa." There is no real way to translate it. Roughly, it can read, We for you South Africa. It can also mean Together for South Africa. That is just my rendition.
My feet firmly planted on the ground next to this granite block, one can appreciate the magnitude of this building. The architectural beauty is something everyone should experience. The magnitude reminds one of the cathedrals found all over Europe.
The First Floor
But in any case, you enter the building or monument with the granite block situated in the middle of the room. Cultural artifacts decorate the middle of the room, and rather interestingly, the surrounding walls are covered in contemporary art. (This has led to some heated debates: why sell contemporary art in a historical building?)
In the room, you can stand next to some of the actual caravans and hold memorabilia in your hands, like a massive gun that was probably used. A very unsettling fact, but that is left in history.
Juxtaposed against contemporary art, is the old and historical art pieces. This mural is impressive and very large. To appreciate its beauty, see the video below the image.
See also the contrast of these historical paintings against the contemporary ones:
Keep in mind that this is on the same floor merely on the opposite wall. It is so interesting the contrast between historical artifacts and contemporary art for sale. One can kind of understand the problem some might have with this.
The Second Floor
On the second floor, you can appreciate the wall reliefs. It is seriously beautiful and one of those awe-inspiring works of art. To appreciate the scale and the beauty, please see the video underneath the photograph.
It is also from here that you can see the monument below from a height that is not fear-inducing!
The Outside: Sculptures
When you step outside, you are greeted with this stunning view of the whole Pretoria horizon:
From here on, you can walk around the whole building on the second-floor level (before you continue to the top).
Across the whole monument, you will find these magnificent sculptures of animals and very important peoples related to the history of the great trek.
See, for example, some of the beautiful animals that walk freely in the surrounding area.
Around the building on all four corners, these pillars of the great trek look outward.
And in front of the monument, to showcase their importance, a mother and two children stand, almost as if showcasing the importance of their role in the formation of a nation.
On the perimeter of the building, you will see actual size monuments of the caravans which were used in the great trek. It is a magnificent sight and one only wonders how this might have looked with real wood and oxen.
Historical Artifacts and Histories
Situated in two buildings, one inside of the monument itself, and one on the outside, you will be treated to a variety of historical artifacts that tell the histories of all the great treks, as there are many different peoples who attempted the same one. Different plaques visually tell you the stories of the various clashes and wars.
But you will also see the various artifacts of actual voortrekkers, like Bibles and songbooks on display. Some of it is not for the faint of heart, as noted, wars are not pretty and with the recent turmoil in global politics, we are too familiar with this.
But on a less political and violent side, one of the museums showcases the building material used by the Voortrekkers and their toys.
These toys were called "dolosse" or "klei osse" or clay cattle. These toys were made by the children to somewhat mimic the actual events happening around them. They thus made their own "great trek" version in miniature form. On the one hand, this is very special and cute, but on the other hand, very sad.
Mixed in with the voortrekker history, you will also find other historical pieces. Their plaques are somewhat missing, so one is left to wonder what their significance is. But this hat stood out and looked really interesting.
You can also see artifacts from the other cultures the voortrekkers encountered. For example, you can see this very nice drum!
The Outside Museum
Outside, you will also find buildings and structures as the voortrekkers might have used and eventually settled down. Weapons and other artifacts are on display with people eager to tell you about the history of every piece. You can also enter some of the caravans.
But these people from the great trek settled down and subsequently became the "Afrikaner" people we get our heritage from. Various artifacts our parents and their parents grew up with, is on display as the heritage the voortrekkers left us.
A Song and Poetry Garden
To conclude this already very long post, the grounds on which the voortrekker monument is built, are also the FAK headquarters. They are the Federasie van Afrikaanse Kultuurvereniginge or the federation for the Afrikaans culture. They release books, amongs others the FAK Sangbundel (song book) in which songs and poems with historical and cultural significance are captured.
Wandellied is, for example, one of the songs/poems with rich cultural significance.
But modern songs/poems are also captured, like the one below of contemporary artist Koos Kombuis.
Postscriptum, or so history goes
This has been a very long one. I did not really touch upon the politics of the history of the great trek. The linked post does a very good job in telling the history from an outsider's perspective, as I think the author is not from South Africa (but I can be wrong about that). Retelling the history from an insider's perspective might be problematic, plus, history was not one of my best subjects in school!
In any case, I hope that you enjoyed this lengthy post about this monument, filled with some videos as well! If you ever pass by, please visit them (especially the kitchen, buy their chips, it is seriously the best!).
For now, safe travels, and be well.
All of the photographs and videos in the post are my own, taken with my Nikon D300 or iPhone. The musings are also my own, unless stated otherwise or hyperlinked.