One of my favorite countries that I have had the pleasure of traveling to is Cuba. Being in Cuba is a surreal experience and in many ways, it feels like an island stuck in time. This becomes immediately apparent when you arrive in Havana, which still has many old American cars from before the embargo that has been in place since 1962. Outside of Havana, most people do not even have cars, and the traditional 4-legged transport is still preferred. This means of transport is none other than the trusty caballo …or horse in English.
Today's journey takes me to the small town of Vinales, on the western end of the island. Vinales is a quiet little town nestled in a vast valley, surrounded by forests and many steep limestone hills. It is a lush and tropical environment that inspires a yearning for adventure deep within me. I am told that there are many tobacco farmers all over the area, and I have decided to make it my mission to buy cigars directly from the source. If you didn’t know, Cuban cigars are world famous, and due to the embargo, they are both rare and expensive, even in Cuba.
I speak with the family I am staying with, who generously provide me with a map and directions to a farmer I can visit. The farm is a bit far from the town, and through the forest, so they also help me to rent a horse for the day. It isn’t long before a Cuban cowboy named Jose rides up to the house with my horse for the day, Raul. Raul seems pretty chill, but I am told that he is young and can still be a bit wild at times. I had ridden horses before, so I wasn’t too worried about Raul, nevertheless, Jose insisted he was going the same way, and that he would ride with me.
We are not more than 5 minutes down the road before concrete is replaced by a muddy trail. The farther we go into the forest, the worse the state of the road. Before long, a stream merges with the path, and Raul is taking us down the stream through two feet of water. I look back at Jose to see if he is concerned at all about the state of the road, he shouts to me “todo bien” (all good) and gives me a thumbs up. After about 5 minutes in the river, the road becomes somewhat solid again and the forest opens up to the valley. Raul gets excited and starts galloping down the path, I grip the reigns and let him go. Running down that dirt road, with the sun on my face, and beautiful countryside all around was a thrill. In those moments I remember feeling like an outlaw making his getaway.
There is a fork in the road up ahead so I pull back on the reigns to slow Raul down. Moments later, Jose catches up with a concerned look on his face. I smile and shoot him a “todo bien” with a thumbs up, which makes him laugh. A little farther up the road, we come to the tobacco farm. The farmer is sitting alone on his porch and seems surprised and happy to see me. Jose continues down the road, but he says he will return in about 30 minutes and he can show me a place with a great view of the area. The man shows me around his small farm and invites me to smoke with him. Before we light the cigars, he brings out a plastic bottle filled with honey he harvested from the forest. He instructs me to dip the end of the cigar in the honey, which gives a smooth and sweet taste. This is apparently a healthier way to smoke cigars, and he claims Che Guavara would always do it this way.
Just about the time my cigar was finished and my Spanish comprehension had reached its limit, Jose had returned. Before moving on, I purchased twenty “puros” or organic cigars for significantly lower than what was being sold in Havana. Instead of coming in a box, the man had them wrapped in a hardened banana leaf, which he assured me would protect them and keep them fresh. He tells me that because his cigars are organic and contain no preservatives, I should not plan to keep them for more than a few months.
About 15 minutes of winding trails before we come up to a “bar” in the middle of the forest. It is a simple wooden structure with no walls and an amazing view overlooking the expansive valley in every direction. Looking out over the lush valley in essentially a treehouse, I half expect to see dinosaurs appear in the distance.
All the riding has worked up a real thirst in me, so naturally I order a coconut. Seeing as I am in Cuba, it seemed fitting to upgrade my coconut with some rum for just a dollar more. The man came over with a bottle of Havana Club, and after a heavy-handed pour he looked at me and asked “mas?” (more?). I couldn’t help myself, and with a nod, he proceeded to fill the rest of the coconut with rum. Despite the stiffness of the drink, the sweetness of the coconut paired perfectly, and it was going down smoothly. While I was enjoying my beverage, a cute white kitten came to play.
Upon finishing our drinks, Jose and I start the journey back into town. I don’t remember much about the ride back, but I do remember having lots of fun.
I hope you enjoyed reading my story. All photos were taken by myself.