In this post I would like to take you about 4 hours south of Chefchaouen, out of the mountains and to the ancient city of Fes, Morocco. The Medina (old city) of Fes is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and is much older and larger than Chefchaouen. With over 9,000 tight and winding alleys it is also very easy to get lost in this ancient maze.
As the many alleys are too narrow for cars, they are not permitted to go past the gates into the old city, making Fes the largest car-free urban zone in the world. As a result of this fact, be prepared to do a lot of walking when you come here, as that is the primary means of transportation. This may sound tiring already, but it is also important to note that this place is like a living museum, with the city keeping most of its original buildings and many of the people living in the same manner as has been for centuries. From the moment you step past one of the ornate main gates into the Medina, or old part of the city, you can’t help but feel as if you've walked back in time.
The streets are alive with sellers of all sorts lining the streets. Donkeys pass by, pulling carts of goods.Every shop is a window into someone’s world. It is hard not to become intoxicated by the constant stream of sights and sounds, overloading your senses, and pulling you deeper into the maze.
There are some really impressive goods being sold, including handwoven rugs, lamps, jewelry, and leather-made products of all types.
I read that Fez has ancient leather tanneries here, and this is a product it has been known to produce with high quality since historical times. The weather was starting to get cold at this time, especially at night, and I was in need of a new jacket. I made it my mission to get a leather jacket while I was here.
For now though, I try to stay focused on the path ahead, as I have just arrived and walking around with all of my valuables in my backpack is not wise. I had been warned about pickpockets and other crime in Fes, so I know I will be able to walk more comfortably once I have dropped off my belongings.
To add to this feeling of unease, nearly every alley has people trying to follow you and give you directions for tips. From every direction there is someone trying to grab my attention “my friend, my friend, where are you from?” trying to get me to follow them down some ominous-looking alley. To make matters worse, the high walls and narrow alleys mean the map keeps cutting out.
I walk with purpose and arrive at my hotel with no major incidents. One of the first things the receptionist says to me is not to go out after dark as the streets can be dangerous. I grab some food and settle in.
I look forward to sharing more about my experiences exploring this ancient city in my next post.
All photos were taken by me. Thank you for reading!
If you are interested in reading about my time exploring the Morocco's "Blue Pearl" Chefchaouen, you can read those here:
Following Goats to Summit of Mountain Over Chefchaouen
Sunset Hike Over Chefchaouen