Hello everyone, and welcome back to Morocco. After about a three-hour bus ride from Marrakech, I am now in the small coastal city of Essaouira. The bus station is not far from the old quarter, but be prepared to be swarmed by taxi drivers offering to drive you there as soon as you step off the bus. As the sun was shining, and I was eager to stretch my legs and explore the new city, I opted to walk 15 minutes to my hotel.
The area around the bus station was really dirty, with many men hanging around, hassling travelers, trying to sell fake bus tickets and tours. Luckily, the nearest gate into the old city is just about a 10-minute walk, and once you pass the walls, the vibe changes dramatically.
Once inside the old quarter, the streets are noticeably well kept, with many of the walls painted a pleasant white and blue. Navigating the streets, I notice other striking differences in how this city was planned. The main streets are much wider and organized in a clear grid pattern, which is huge departure from the complex labyrinth of narrow alleys I had previously encountered in older Moroccan cities like Marrakech and Fez.
Despite the clear organization of the city, the alleys branching off the main streets were still winding and with sudden turns, which maintained the same benefits of shade and privacy that other Moroccan medina’s enjoyed. Additionally, I notice that many of the streets seem intentionally designed with wind-flow in mind, giving even the side streets a calm breeze.
I learn that this city was designed in the 18th century, with a large influence from European Enlightenment-era urban designs. This is rare among pre-colonial Moroccan cities like Fes and Marrakech, which were not planned but grew organically over a long time.
I drop off my bags at the guesthouse and start to wander towards the sea. It has been nearly a month since I arrived by boat in Tangier, and since that time I have been away from the comforting embrace of salty sea air. For most of my adult life I have chosen to live near the ocean, and being around it has always made me feel at home.
I follow one of the roads until I reach the outer sea wall, and it isn’t long before I find a stairway leading up onto the ramparts.
Once up there, I am surprised by how wide the walls is. Seeing it lined with cannons, I imagine what it might have been like to defend the city from an offshore fleet. The thick walls and row of canons would have made this well suited for defense.
The Atlantic wind is strong and misty from the constant crashing of waves on the rocky shore. I take my time wandering along the walls, breathing in the fresh air, and letting the gentle sunshine bath me in its embrace.
I feel a new energy flowing through me. Having said goodbye to a great travel companion, I was on my own again, refreshed and eager to see what new adventures lie ahead.
I hope you enjoyed reading about my arrival in Essouira. Please consider joining me in my next post, where I discover more hidden beauty in this unique coastal escape.
All photos were taken by me. Have a great day! :)