For most visitors there is one famous sight to visit in the town of Petchaburi at the northern end of the Thai peninsular. It's called Phra Nakhon Khiri and is visible long before you actually reach the town. However, locally it's called Khao Wang, which means "Palace Hill".
It's a complex of royal and religious buildings perched on a limestone hill within the town. It is well looked after as a Historic Park and is a lovely place to explore for half a day. There are three main parts to the site set on three peaks: a museum, a chedi and a temple, all connected by attractive brick paths wandering around the well-kept rocky hill, which is rich in both flowers and trees.
Briefly, it's history started with King Rama IV who built the main sections in the 1850's as a retreat from Bangkok and as a place to pursue his interest in astromony. His Royal residence section now houses a National Museum full of royal-related artifacts. King Rama V also used the site but it was subsequently left to fall into disrepair until King Rama IX visited in 1956. He recognised the site's importance and potential so intitated restoration. His historical park project as it stands today was completed in 1987 and they did a great job.
The hill is only 92m high but to see all of it on a hot day is asking a lot! On the western side there is a cable-car that takes you close to the top and that is the most popular access route. However, my preferred way up is to walk the original track that begins on the eastern side. It has a more authentic feel, to follow the same route the royals and original builders would have used. And it is a very pleasant path. The climb isn't very long although perhaps a bit steep for some. I recommend starting out when it opens at 08:30 so you can at least do the short climb before the sun gets strong. A cloudy day in the rainy season would be another good choice as there are plenty of pavillions and other places to take shelter if it rains.
There is a coffee shop at the top of the cable-car and water/soft drinks are available elsewhere.
The architecture is mainly Thai-style as you would expect but with a lot of both Chinese and European influence making for an interesting blend that is always appealing. There are also plenty of small details that add to a feeling of discovery. Nooks, crannies and winding paths make the whole park a captivating experience.
Most of the paths are brick roadways and there are fewer steps than you might expect. This was to enable access for wheels and horses. To me these paths are lovely constructions with gentle undulations and attractive weathering that makes them a real pleasure to stroll along. And the park's staff keep them clear of the leaves that could quickly make them slippery.
At the museum there is also a glass-roofed tower that used to have lights in it at night as a navigation aid for fisherman out at sea but this is no longer needed as the main buildings on the hill are always well-lit making the hill an attractive night-time landmark visible from far. It is always the backdrop to any festival in Petchaburi.
The longest flight of steps is up to the central chedi, which I was surprised to find has access into its interior. Walking (for some that will mean crouching) inside leads to a small chamber with a very welcome darker, cooler atmosphere. Warning: it can be a shock going back out into the bright sunshine!
Another warning that is liberally posted around the park is to beware of the macaque monkeys that can be a problem if they think they can grab some food. There has been a recent project to reduce the numbers of these monkeys around the site and when I went a few days ago I saw a few dozen with absolutely no hint of any trouble. To me, they and their lively antics add a lot and I hope there is never any attempt to remove them all. Infact, the only interaction I saw was a group of people laughing at one monkey who was too nervous to run passed them even though her friends already had.
This hill has several temples around its base and in comparison the one on top is very small but far nicer. It was made in the style of the famous Wat Phra Kaew (Emerald Buddha Temple) in Bangkok except without quite the same grandeur or rambling grounds. When I visited, the main hall was being renovated but the rest was striking enough.
I spent almost three hours wandering around and that was without entering the museum or stopping at the cafe. By the end it was getting hot but the trees help a lot. I have never seen a woodland of frangipani before. The views over the surrounding town and generally flat agricultural land are also worth a mention.
As I strolled around I kept bumping into a group of young monks who were clearly there as tourists visiting from a different temple. Strangely, they were actually the loudest people I met, which I put down to their enthusiasm at being somewhere with interest always around the next corner.
Near the entrance there is an old engraved metal map of the site that has weathered to the point of being hard to read but there is also a clearer modern version for more easy guidance. I like the fact that the old one has been left because it is a part of the site's history in itself and looks quite attractive albeit illegible.
One small complaint to finish with. I am not a fan of the dual pricing system they use at places like this where a foreigner like me has to pay an entrance fee three times higher than for a Thai, even though I have been living in this country for decades and my roots are well embedded. As government policy it would be pointless to complain to the local staff but it's always worth moaning elsewhere when the chance arises.
Despite this it was well worth the 150 baht (about US$5) I had to pay.
