A very famous peak growing in the lap of Pir-Panjal Mountain Range is “Friendship Peak”, its height according to “Indian Mountaineering Foundation” is 5289 meters and it is located in the very famous valley “Solang” of Kullu District of Himachal Pradesh. Let us know about this peak which has won big titles like “Non-Technical Peak” and “Tracking Peak” in such a short time.
Hell Race has been organizing trail running races in Solang Valley for the last 3 years. Every year, Solang would reach there with a dream in his eyes that “this time together we will climb Beas Kund and Friendship Peak”, but after the race, instead of becoming a tracker, it is more fun to become a grizzly bear, under which any power in the world can take the body to the next level. Can't stop you from going into hibernation mode for 6 months.
In three days, Jalsu Pass then covered a distance of 26 km around Bir. Preparation is completed by completing the long track. Now it was time to attack and take ourselves from 1550 meters (Bir) to 2450 meters (Solang). Facing all the problems coming on the way, we reach Manali on the evening of 24th October, the game started with the announcement “Tonight will be spent here”, Many years ago, while coming back from Trilokinath trekking expedition from Chamba, on the advice of 'Naveen Jogta', we stayed in guest house in Manali where the rent for a room at that time was only Rs 20. Due to arriving late, the fear of “not getting a room” was haunting me at every step. As soon as I left my bags outside and entered the Dharamshala, I was standing in front of the manager of the Dharamshala. As soon as she heard the complaint, she rejected it outright and pointed outside with her middle finger, “You will get a room in the hotel opposite here, the house gets full from evening itself”.
As I move in the direction of the middle finger, I bump into a double chin uncle who in a heavy voice shows me the dormitory at the rate of Rs 200 per person. There are 4 beds there, 2 of which are occupied by middle aged uncles who have fumigated the room measuring 8 by 4. Ignoring the beedi smoke and helium gases coming out from the backyard, I demand 2 beds for Rs. 300, to which the double chin uncle says, “Such a cheap and clean room will not be found anywhere else in Manali”.
“What happened?”, as soon as Nitya heard her voice, it seemed as if Kejriwal's ghost possessed her... Now in her eyes, there is no one in this world who is worse than me. Nitya spoiled the whole game by coming in between, now uncle forcefully shows me the basement room and says, “The price of this room is Rs 500 and if any ups and downs happen with the girl in the dormitory, who will be responsible?”, While speaking his first chin touches the other. After taking the offer and advice, I had just reached the gate of Dharamshala when the manager of Dharamshala, out of pity, finally gave us a room. As soon as we got the copy of personal ID and paid Rs 45, we started filling to Manali conquer.
Woke up at 7:30, moved as if I was the king of some country. Left the guest house at 9 o'clock and after eating potato parathas at "Hidimba Restaurant" reached Manali bus stand with fingers crossed like a king. Keeping my bag on the iron benches, I look into the 'information window' in EGO and ask, "What time will Solang's bus leave?" , They ignored me and my question as if I belonged to a mental asylum.
“Sir, what time will Solang’s bus leave?”, Sir’s address worked and the reply was “1:30 in the afternoon, the current one had left just 5 minutes ago”. While Nitya was giving this answer, 6-7 taxi drivers surrounded us. Now the situation is so complicated that “even one mistake here can make you go to Kasol”. Nitya, inspired by women empowerment, issues a statement “We have 50 rupees, will you go to Solang?”, after which the crowd carrying Kasol disperses. I learned a lesson from this whole farce that “Whether you grow a big beard, you become a traveler or not, the rest is still you”.
Having bought two tickets worth Rs 36 each, we are sitting in the Keylong bus, whose conductor, looking at Nitya, is abusing the elderly conductor from Manali who, as per the provisions of the Himachal Government, should give 25% discount on tickets to women. Nitya looks at me as if she wants to say “Which woman is he talking about? , The bus drops us at Palchan, from here it takes 20 minutes to reach Solang on foot. As soon as we meet ‘Roshan Lal’ he welcomes us warmly by saying “Welcome to Solang”.
First of all we complete the important work for which we have come from Beed to Solang and after that we become the laughing stock of the entire Solang Valley. The sound of 'Yoga Mattress' echoes till Hanuman Tibba, everyone is laughing and saying 'Yoga Mattress' after seeing our trekking mattress. A scene like Sholay movie is created, now Nitya is also laughing like 'Villan-Kalia' after seeing both the tracking mattresses and I am remembering my uncle's son Ramdev. Roshan, like the 'Gabbar villain', takes a detailed look at each of our belongings and mutters to himself as if he is saying, "You have got life insurance done, right?" , So after Roshan's announcement, Johnny issues us some gear for the summit.
Now we are in the tent, sometimes I look at my rucksack and sometimes at the mountaineering gears given to me by Roshan. There is too much luggage and bags...don't even talk about that. We got snow shoes, gaiters, ice-axes, crampons and rope from Roshan, apart from this Nitya also got waterproof track pants and a minus 10 degree sleeping bag…which makes me jealous. After an hour of hard work, I finally carried 50 kg in my 45 liter rucksack. I manage to stuff the stuff. The continuous sounds of “Kya Batmeeji Hai” are telling that the weight of Nitya's rucksack has become many times more than her own weight. After picking up our rucksacks, we sat down, Nitya's face became 'motherface' and mine became shitface.
According to Roshan, we will reach 'Lady Leg Camp' from Dhundhi in three hours and from there it will take another half an hour to reach the summit camp. After this shower of knowledge, we decided to leave comfortably in the morning. Next morning we woke up at 7.30 am and left Solang Valley at 09.50 am. Roshan dropped us in Dhundhi in his car from where we started the trek at 10:34 sharp in the morning.
G.P.S. It turned on and our motivation went off as soon as we picked up the rucksack. I had carried such a heavy rucksack either in a mountaineering course or when I had to ferry the load as a mule in Uttarakhand because I could not pay for the tea. We had walked only 200 meters when our doubts about becoming a mule started turning into confidence. Looking at Nitya, it seems that the rucksack is carrying Nitya and the rucksack itself is going to the summit.
Walking along the banks of river Beas coming from Beas Kund, we soon crossed the Palchani stream. Hanuman Tibba, the main mountain of this valley, stands in front wearing a crown of snow, while the rest of the hill peaks have accepted Hanuman Tibba as their husband in their minds. All the queens are secretly enjoying the darshan of their husbands through the lap of white snow. The king is smiling at all his queens. Taking advantage of the opportunity, I also pray for the summit.
In 2 hours we reach Nuali Stream (3365 m), now we have left the trail leading to Beas Kund and caught a new stream coming from Friendship Glacier, probably called 'Seri Nala'. After stopping at Nuali, we eat a banana each and exchange our rucksacks. Now the steep climb has started and on top of that, Nitya's rucksack is crushing my shoulders. The shoulder straps of the rucksack are very weak and not wide for 65 litres, it is hitting the bones with every step.
Like a mule, I am slowly climbing the hill with my neck down. Below I can see Nupur, who from a distance looks like a sheep to me. Three trackers are descending from top to bottom, they are telling that there is powder snow on the summit, take one step up and 4 steps down, a slippery game is going on there. Without stopping, both the mules reach 'Lady Leg Camp' in 2 hours 55 minutes where the altitude is 3821 meters.
Another team is sitting here which will attempt the summit on 29th October. Roshan has already told them about us so they make tea for us and we eat the packed lunch given by Roshan. After exchanging best wishes and a few dozen good-luck wishes, we move ahead, today's destination is the summit camp of Friendship Peak. NRI The guide accompanying the girl tells that there is no water at the summit camp. After his warning, we fill our water bottles from here and move ahead with full confidence that “if we don't get water, we will melt the snow”.
The climb is still going on, due to the heavy weight my 20 inch chest has shrunk to only 10 inches. The sun is hot yet the cold wind is behind us. While Hanuman Tibba is supporting us from behind, Friendship Peak is behaving like a step-mother. The face has become numb due to the cold winds coming from the chest of the mountain.
Rock garden begins, climbing now becomes technical. Hanuman Tibba and Friendship Peak are standing face to face, fearless and steadfast. At one end is the king, at the other is his naughty girlfriend and in between we are two mules. There is sunshine on Hanuman Tibba, dark dense clouds on Friendship. As the anger of friendship increases, snowflakes start falling. After some neighing, I finally reach the Friendship Summit Camp stomping my feet. I look behind, I don't know the whereabouts of Nitya, but I definitely see a rucksack coming up.
While I am controlling my breathing, the wind becomes stronger. After all, what is going on here? , As soon as I turn to know, it seems as if I hear the dialogue of the mountains. Friendship does not want us to summit, she complains to Hanuman Tibba that “We are not allowed to breathe easy even after the snow falls, do you know what kind of plight we have become because of people like these”. Hanuman Tibba is calm and he says lovingly, “Why are you so restless, accept that you are a tourist.” You get bored very quickly after snow falls.” She makes a face and orders the dark clouds to move away. Friendship's face is shining in the sunlight, as if she is shy. The mountain standing in the distance looks at his beloved. “Okay, okay, I accept them, now don't look at me like that, I feel ashamed”.
And then both the wind and the snow stop, as if the entire valley and we have received the blessings of the mountain. The rucksack has arrived...I mean Nitya has arrived, we have pitched the tent. All the nearby water sources have dried up, the good thing is that some ice is found under a big boulder which we can melt and use. The temperature is -4.5 degrees and we start tea. Nitya prepares rice and I arrange ice from outside. Evening is beginning to set in, the temperature is continuously falling. Hanuman Tibba has been painted orange, while friendship is being shyly confined to its own lap.
“The original plan was to wake up at 2 in the morning.
Then it was 2:30,
“Let's go 3!”,
And in no time it became 4.”
The temperature reached -8.5 at 9 pm. "Why don't we take the stove up tomorrow and make tea while sitting on the summit?" , In response Nitya says yes but then I refuse remembering my crushed shoulders. We said goodbye to the day after saying goodnight to the mountain.
Disclaimer: I have also posted the content (text and photos) posted in this blog in Hindi language on my Hindi blog www.himalayanwomb.blogspot.com. The English version of the same Hindi blog on Hive has been posted here with the help of Google Translate.
[//]:# (!pinmapple 32.39671 lat 77.10427 long A Journey from Solang Valley to the Pinnacle of Friendship Peak (Part-01) d3scr)