My stay in Trieste was very brief. I planned it as a resting stop between Venice and Pula. I didn’t feel like covering 6h+ in a bus. And anyway, Trieste is a place that have been poking my mind for a while.
Trieste is an important crossroad in the 19th and 20th century history. Trieste used to be the most important commercial port of Austria-Hungary and at the conclusion of WWII, it was a territory fiercely disputed between Italy and the newly formed Socialist Republic of Yugoslavia. The dispute was so acute across the international tables that the city was definitely assigned to Italy only in 1975, after 3 decades spent under a special military administration, similar to post-war Germany.
Because of its nature of border land, Trieste is one of the few Italian cities where you can breath a strong sense of patriotism. You will find Italian flags everywhere and people are proud of their national identity. They feel great to be Italian, whether their last name is Italian or Slavic, it doesn’t matter. They fought together, hand-in-hand, to be part of Italy and to escape from Tito’s ferocious and Stalinist regime.
It is obvious that Trieste’s spectacular main square is called Piazza Unità d’Italia (Italy’s Unity Square).
Thought the square’s name is an Italian anthem in the form of buildings, the site was built by the Austrian rulers and you can tell it by its grandiose baroque style. One of these buildings used to host a stock exchange (La Borsa).
This can give you an idea of how important Trieste was for the Austro-Hungarian empire’s economy.
If you turn your back to the square, you can admire a breath-taking view of the sea. This square faces directly the water, which makes everything special. It gives an almost Venetian touch to the venue.
The nightlife
Trieste is a multicultural and hence lively town. You don’t need to struggle to find activities during the evening. Just take a walk along the seaside and you will bump into open air concerts, animated pubs, and filled restaurants where you can appreciate “cicchettini”, the tapas typical of North-East Italy.
I must warn you that Trieste is quite expensive. I was a bit shocked by the prices. To give you an idea, a pizza in a random, non-touristic place, can be 12 EUR, even up to 18 EUR!
As soon as I understood I should have make my pocket bleed, I decided to go for a fancy, slow-food restaurant, that serves only home-made products.
La Bottega dell’Antiquario was created with the intention of delivering fresh, hand-made dishes inspired by the local grandmas. They combine the finest creations of Trieste’s tradition, adding a modern touch.
I went for a peas cream soup that hid an egg boiled in balsamic vinegar. The result was spectacular both for the eyes and the tongue!
The meal proceed with fresh tagliatelle covered by an incredible Bolognese sauce made as only a loving grandma could prepare. If you tried, you should know that fresh pasta is another world, nothing to do with the dry pasta we buy in supermarkets.
What did I drink with these culinary wonders? A local red wine, a Carso Rosso, if I remember correctly. Dry till the right point, enough to leave room for a little fruity touch which danced well with the peas soup and amplified smoothly the sublime taste of the Bolognese sauce topping the fresh tagliatelle. 37.00 EUR paid for a good 30 minutes of heaven. Was I happy? You can bet I was!
Usually I’m not enthusiastic with spending too much money in a restaurant, especially when I’m alone, but sometimes, you should treat yourself right. You live only once and one fine-dining here and there won’t compromise your financial future.
It’s a pity that my bus to Pula was scheduled already for 8:30 the next morning. I’ve spent barely 12 hours in Trieste. I wish I could stay more, at least enough to visit the castle, the synagogue and the orthodox church, monuments that remark the multicultural heritage of this special city. A city that is definitely not the typical Italian place, yet it feels more Italian that any other Italian place does.
A presto, Trieste! ;-)
Despite the short time, I had the chance to leave in Trieste a copy of my book Thank You, President Corona! You can find it at the ControVento hostel, in the lounge area…
